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It might not be the bars themselves, but rather how they're positioned? Have you tried rolling them back or forward a fraction, as it makes quite a difference either way
I can't get my hands comfortable at all if the bars are rolled forward, whereas I know people who find the complete opposite
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My little fingers ache when I put my hands too wide on the bars and they overhang the ends. The fingers might not be doing much but I guess you brace on the grips with the outside bit of your palm rather than the middle and then I get roughly around my outside knuckles.
Are they 800mm bars? I'd consider moving the levers further in again.
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Nah, it's like the second ride on this bike and the first one that was longer than an hour. I'm making notes and tweaking stuff as I notice it.
My elbows are out so my wrists are cocked inwards rather than outwards like they would be if you just held them out. This might be bad, I've no idea.
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I think double locking grips don't help if you have those as well.
I have thought about trying to find some 820mm bars to see if that cures it but I think probably it's my lever position that's wrong. Would definitely try moving them, can always move them back...
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I did a couple of hours on the red runs at Bedgebury yesterday, which is the first time I’ve ridden a MTB for about 20 years and the most ‘off-road’ I’ve ever ridden.
A lot of fun and I was impressed with how the hired hard tail e-bike soaked up stuff that I did not know how to deal with!Can someone point me at a decent first mtb that won’t need upgrading for a while? Budget maybe up to £1.5k if I can clear out some other bikes but happy to spend a lot less. I’m assuming forks, tyres and brakes are the key components here, although I’d like a dropper and 1x.
I know nothing about the various standards… -
double locking grips
The ones with lockrings at both ends? I have those. They came with the SID because it has a remote lockout grip-shift thing. I think I'm likely to piss the remote lockout off and just leave the forks on or grab the top of the fork. I find the grip shift thing annoying and I often change hand position so find myself accidentally pushing the release button all the time anyway.
Will play with lever position some more.
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It might not be the bars themselves, but rather how they're positioned? Have you tried rolling them back or forward a fraction, as it makes quite a difference either way
@hippy actually when I think back to when I started MTBing in later life hand pain was one of the things I struggled with and rotating the bars back so that the upsweep was level with the ground pretty much sorted it out. I've also got some SQ labs grips which I would say were better than the Ergons, they've got more cushioning.
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I find the grip shift thing annoying
@BareNecessities fooking loves a grip shift. (I can hear my self saying that and sounding particularly northern)
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Just to be clear, it's not a shifter, it's just fork lockout.
There doesn't appear to be much in it - I mean, specs say 8deg or whatever but trying to picture the end result in my head doesn't get me going "oh yeah, that might work". I think the first thing to try will be move the levers back inwards and see if I can get used to having my whole hand in the middle of the grip.
What do you think it was about rotating the sweep back that helped? Instead of going towards the sky it brings the ends of the bars back, closer to you?
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I assume just the materials. I've never been keen on composite pedals, ive always figured they'd be weaker...maybe they aren't. For giving it a go I assume they are identical.
7's have adjustable pins for more or less grip/shin damage.
The 7's can be easily refurbed with a relatively cheap kit....if you can find it. -
The Stamps aren't perfect, I'll say that, between the flat pedals I can remember off the top of my head I'd say the DMR Vaults were the best but didnt have them long, Stamp 7's good and large as discussed and the Raceface Atlas were pretty shite in terms of durability and they warped to the point they could not be serviced. Dat's me knowledge.
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I'd have thought that would exacerbate the "cocked inwards" nature of my wrists but I'll bear it in mind as something else to potentially tweak. Probably, much of this stuff will just go away as the alcohol molecules in my body shuffle around and get used to the different bike and riding.
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So I had a hardtail and it came with the Vaults, the grip of the Vaults with FiveTens was such that it was great for the bouncy, rattly nature of HT riding.
The Stamps were and are still on my full squish Enduro bike, that extreme grip isn't really required and I like the size of the platform.
I've since sold the HT and the Vaults went with, good selling point for what was a substantial selling price for 2nd hand.
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I see. I do lose my feet from the pedals now and then - combo of bad riding causing the backend to buck and a bit of "oh yeah, I'm not clipped in, you idiot!".
Will see how the Shimano shoes cope, then decide whether or not to go bigger platform. I do remember getting sore feet during Badlands - that was with my long Catalyst pedals - so perhaps it is a width issue with these flexible shoes.
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I'd have thought that would exacerbate the "cocked inwards" nature of my wrists but I'll bear it in mind as something else to potentially tweak.
Rolling the bar back brings your elbows in, while rolling it forward sticks them out 'moto' style
Probably, much of this stuff will just go away as the alcohol molecules in my body shuffle around and get used to the different bike and riding.
As with your other bikes, it'll be a combination of you adjusting + bike being adjusted. If it all becomes a massive pita, you do at least know a good bike fitter :-)
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DMR V11s are plastic vaults and half the price.
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BareNecessities fooking loves a grip shift
I do, but I don't like a fork lockout
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Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt
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I've got PRO Koryak (sp?) bars that maybe put my wrists in a weird position but I've not ridden it enough to work it out. I moved the brakes closer to the grips but I'm still 1-finger braking so I have plenty two bigger fingers on the bars. I wonder if the little fingers were just rattling off the ends of the bars? I had this during Paris Brest on the road bike and the trick was to hold the loose fingers together so they didn't "rattle". Bit hard to explain.
Another note I took was that the shifters bump my fingers so I think I want to shift them further away independently of the brake levers. The SID grips are very thin and hard and I have big hands - that's why I was thinking fatter, softer grips might help back off the grip and offer some padding too.
Yeah, having not seat under me feels odd. I guess also there's a bunch of muscles being used that a normally doing nothing because I'm sat down for all descents. It's knackering!
I also have Shimano flat shoes so I'll give those a go next time. IIRC they have a slightly stiffer sole. I need to put my Catalyst midfoot pedals on - they're not wide but they have a very long platform which helps stop the shoe bending over the front/back. I don't have them handy at the moment but something like the Crank Bros pedals could be an option.
Because I'm riding midfoot, the FiveTens are only 85mm wide at that part of the shoe and allowing for my UK12 to clear the cranks I'm probably hanging my shoes off the side of the Nukeproofs (they're 100mm wide in the middle)
Crank Bros: 114mm x 111m (Large) would give an extra 11mm at least which could help.