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• #4077
Yeah, I like the position of where it is now!
I did find this, did wonder it it would be an option: https://www.racewaredirect.co/shop/universal-bar-mount-for-cycliq-fly-12-ce/
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• #4078
Can anyone recommend a light to use on a cargo bike?
Have an IQ-X on normal bike - the switch/not a switch is a bit shit for turning on/off however I can reach down from the handlebars if needed.
I need something with a mechanical switch that can be mounted upside down. what are my options?
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• #4079
Have you considered just not switching off/on the light? The wiring is really simple!
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• #4080
I have, but as I will be purchasing another light anyway would rather it just did what I need it to without the extra faf.
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• #4081
Where can I get one of those dynamo brackets made up of the bended wire without paying more for postage than the bracket is worth?
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• #4082
I might have a spare. Will check this evening.
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• #4083
Old Luxos had that: https://www.bike24.com/p238271.html
You can also source some old Shimano switches: SW-NX30
Or switches like Kemo M-172N where it would also bring you USB plug (30-ish euro here)Would however use the light sensor, never switch on and off my lights!
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• #4084
Luxos can't be mounted upside down while maintaining it's correct light beam pattern, no? Would just blind drivers?
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• #4085
Oh miss this point... The lonely ones I know are: Son Edelux II "upside down" (but yes, it is a specific model where the interior is also built upside down) and Busch Mueller IQ-X where you rotate the light from its support. Supernova might have some too...
This said you can just adapt a bracket as below and bring back the light up:
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• #4086
If this is the right type and you don't mind sourcing your own bolts you can have one of these. PM me your address and I'll stick it in the post tomorrow.
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• #4087
Alternatively that is nice! "Son Edelux II mounted with Weinmann Type 810 Brake Arm" (found on web)
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• #4088
That would be amazing. PM incoming.
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• #4089
Cool
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• #4090
I just run dyno all the time, have a supernova E3 I think, F+R just run all the time, with 32c tyres cannot notice the drag on it.
Made a bracket for mine with bits of old cantilever brakes as none seemed to exist for my exact mounting strategySwitchs seem to be the main point of failure for lights IME. SON not excluded (think they are the ones that use that external magnetic switch?) seen those fail too, usually in the 'can't turn it on, situation'
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• #4091
Too busy/lazy to look back through thread... IQ-X seems to have died (guessing the LED as it'll still power the back light). What's current best value light to replace it with that'll still work with a B&M rear light?
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• #4092
Busch Mueller IQ-X where you rotate the light from its support
This works really well.
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• #4093
Correction, it's not broken, I just forgot to switch the button on while testing it... though the little plastic bit next to the LED has broken. Also I just punched myself in the groin while spinning the wheel to make it work.
Plus have just blinded myself by looking into it while it was running.
Everything is going great...Anyway, this little reflector bit - any suggestions for how I can fix it into place when one of the little mounting tabs has broken? Should I just run it without it and avoid cycling in Germany?
(assuming that it's something that makesit road legal there).
1 Attachment
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• #4094
Just super glue it back on
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• #4095
My IQ-X has just died. It was fine on the way to work (daylight, but a colleague commented on my lights when I arrived so I know they were on), but when I left in the evening (dark) no lights.
Dynamo is reading 18v AC when I spin the wheel with the bike on the stand. Rear light tails get 0.3v (AC, but I wonder if that should be measured DC). Doing the button doesn't seem to do anything.
Time to order a new light? Or is something up with the dynamo and it's killed the light?
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• #4097
Switchs seem to be the main point of failure for lights IME. SON not
excluded (think they are the ones that use that external magnetic
switch?) seen those fail too, usually in the 'can't turn it on,
situation'If the issue is the ring, those are pretty inexpensive
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• #4098
Any luck sticking it back together? I took mine apart this afternoon and both the seals for the front and rear crumbled. I was planning on measuring the voltage within, but didn't get that far.
I have another bike with a B&M light and Shimano hub so I was able to swap bits around and verify my dynamo is fine and it's the light that failed.
My light died on Wednesday, no rain, about 10Âșc, so not the kind of weather I'd expect to tip it over the edge. I don't know if it contributed, but I noticed my bar bag droops on to the light slightly, and I wonder if that made it overheat.
IQ-X, you lasted three years of commuting, now to be replaced with the Edelux II I've ordered.
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• #4099
Yes, reflector bit superglued back, all reassembled fine. Aside from me repeatedly forgetting it's threaded the wrong way. Seals were fine. All working well plus cleaned the inside of the lens out and looks much brighter as a result.
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• #4100
i am a soldering n00b. I have a front and rear light with relatively short cables. What cable do I need to solder them together? Ordered a soldering iron, a stand and a cable holder.
I am (hopefully) having someone 3d print me a mount to do this, probably using the gopro style attachment as I guess this will be easier to replicate than the actual cleat fitting thing. I've been using the stem faceplate mount hung upside down from the lower bolts, which I really like but I sometimes need a bar bag