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Feels like it’s verging on @gbj_tester territory BUT, I understand that 608 bearings on an imperial axle is a reason for this. You can shim the axle, or get it replaced with 8mm steel. And while you’re burning cash get the locknuts and hanger ends faced so that you don’t need washers?
Citation: I have a set of giant slalom trucks (based around an Indy 109 front and a 3dm split axle rear) - 8mm axles, everything faced, smooth fitting and running, it’s just the idiot driving that’s the cause of slop now : )
vilms5000-
The metric/imperial mismatch would presumably just make the bearing centres not quite as tight on the axles, which might make the wheel rattle slightly, but not sure it would introduce any sideways slop? I'm thinking that truck-washer-bearing-spacer-bearing-washer-nut should be able to be tightened down, without putting any sideways pressure on the bearings, as long as flange inside the wheel <spacer width.
I think I should try doubling up the washers on the truck-side of the wheel, to eliminate any interference from the truck, then the same with the bolt-side.
Those bearings seem like a good idea, but only really eliminate the need for spacers, which I have.
AlexD
Got a wheels/bearings technical question:
I always use spacers in between bearing, and washers (‘speed rings’!). I don’t really like having any slop, so I want to be able to tighten the axle nuts up and everything still spin nicely. I sometimes find, like with my setup at the moment, that 3 of the wheels will spin fine and one will feel like it’s binding just a little, so I have to loosen the nut off a bit.
What’s it binding on? I’ve tried swapping wheels around and it won’t make a difference to the position that binds - ie. It’s not the wheel or bearings, it’s that particular side of the truck.
Completely inconsequential of course, but it irritates me that I can’t troubleshoot it.