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• #50777
how much is that all costing? is that a damp proof membrane going in?
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• #50778
Insulating, it originally have tiles on top of several layers that result in damp, which came from a previous leak of the sink and boiler (both been rectified) and it doesn't allow it to breathe (photo before original timber being removed)
The floor, wood and insulating alone is a little over 2 grand, a massive chunk.
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• #50779
Was it just the floorboards that were fucked or were the joists buggered too?
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• #50780
2 grand for the floor isnt as bad as thought it might be
we have a concrete floor and its not clear wether a proper damp proof membrane has been installed beneath the concrete
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• #50781
Floorboard, the joint are in good condition, it’s the timber that suffer because they (builder) believe the tiles was badly laid resulting in it getting damp, and the membrane & plywood was glued to the floor.
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• #50782
2 grand for the floor isnt as bad as thought it might be
I don’t know, I reckon you’re right, it’s way more than my monthly salary so It felt a lots.
One room was £1400 for removing floor, installing insulation, and refitting including replacing damaged floor with reclaimed timber and tighten up the gap, this excludes sanding and oiling the floor which we did to keep cost down.
The kitchen floor cost felt on par because we don’t use reclaimed timber, only new one cause it gonna get painted white anyway and no one can tell the difference. -
• #50783
Similar goings on in my living room today, though lifting the boards was more to check everything beneath, and prepare for plumbing and electrics to do their thing without needing to cut holes, and then finally for us to do underfloor insulation before nailing back down and sanding.
Scaffold also went up for re-pointing at the back, sorting that fucked sill on the left, as well as the back yard walls being dropped and re-built.
Feels like things are actually happening now.
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• #50784
The wood look in good nick! and good call on insulating, I’m still amazed how much of a difference it made, even when the heating is turn off for 8 hours, we now only turn the heating on for a couple hours a days.
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• #50786
Is that rad fitted wonky?
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• #50787
It’s not connected.
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• #50788
Something is, maybe the wall though.
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• #50789
I reckon the apparent wonkiness is just perspective.
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• #50790
Not me,but it all looks good.
How long before you move in?
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• #50791
maybe the wall though.
My guess too.
Usually you're better off lining things up with the nearest large straight line instead of trying to get it level. Ceiling is normally a good bet, but in that case probably the support pillar.
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• #50792
That's great! Did have to get any paperwork proving you have insulate underfloor for energy rating purposes?
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• #50793
My dad reckons the boards aren’t original to the house, given the joists are so beefy - also look like pine, not sure of that’s normal for a 1905ish house (?)
Also found bits of newspaper from 1970 lining the walls under the plaster in places.RE: radiators you might be thinking of @bobble ?
I almost started a thread for ‘usernames you get mixed up’ precisely because of these two..!Are they Acova rads?
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• #50794
Wide angle lens.
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• #50795
so why now are they putting restrictions on staying warm and using less energy to heat?
There's some campaigning going on atm around this - especially local councils that have declared a climate emergency and have loads of conservation areas. Sympathetic conservation officers and planners are starting to come around but it varies hugely and the written local planning guidance needs to be changed to make it easier to improve homes in terms of energy use.
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• #50796
They're nice, where are they from?
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• #50797
This is a good guide to retrofitting older buildings - free pdf - https://www.thepebbletrust.org/sustainablerenovation.asp
This one is more bigger picture but there's a load of case studies at the back too https://www.leti.london/retrofit
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• #50799
He’s doing nearly everything in our flat! Floor is something a local builders can do and apparently take a day and a half
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• #50800
Someone who can do nearly everything sounds even better. Pm me?
You might be able to move your extension wiring to a different port in the faceplate splitter, assuming that is what you have. In this example your extension would be wired to the blue connections for voice but if you want DSL you need to connect to the red.
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