Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I am and if its sloppy you need a new grommet and maybe a sheath housing to go inside the frame then to a cable stop on your frame.

Lots off different things could be wrong here so more questioning.

Is the frame brand new?
This frame tube door looks like it could be for the rear hydro hose, where does the rear hose enter the frame?
Did the frame come with any extra 'doors'?

Also what year is the frame as the newest one I can see online seems to have ports brazed on for the cables.

Looks different in the stock pic.

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Thanks for the reply, the frame was bought from eBay and just came with the one pair of doors, the internal routing ports are only on the down tube and exit via hole at bottom of down tube, I agree the frames online from the Merlin website look very different not only because cable doors are different but because there seems to be another port at the under side of downtube so I am quite confused about that.

A little confused by a problem I haven't encountered before...

Recently purchased this wheelset with SRAM/Shimano freehub: https://www.wiggle.com/fulcrum-rapid-red-5-db-road-wheelset

I fitted a brand new 105 11-speed cassette, (all in correct order and lock ring torqued correctly etc). Everything seemed ok.

However, on my first ride, I noticed a rattle when going over bumps. Realised that the cogs are moving horizontally a little, like 10 speed without a spacer or if the lock ring was loose. have checked and all seems ok?

I guess I can just add an old 9/10 speed spacer and solve the problem, but does anybody know why I might be getting such movement from 11 speed and a hub designed for it? TIA.

11-34 cassette?

Yes! It's 11-34.

If it's the HG700 or HG800 cassette it will have a little spacer to fit 11 speed hubs - without this it will be loose.
Shown in the last picture in this article.
https://cyclingtips.com/2018/03/shimano-ultegra-hg-800-11-34t-cassette-review/

They're spaced like MTB 11 speed, so as mentioned, need a spacer behind for road 11 speed freehubs.

Looks similar to the 'gates' on the Kinesis tripster. A new plate would solve your issue, one with a stop end for a gear ferrule?

If so send dimensions on the old gate and I'll check my spares box tomorrow.

Thanks @snottyotter and @lcf01. I've learnt something today - didn't know MTB spacing was different.

Road spacing is the different one really.

3.2 x 1.8 cm, if you could that that would be amazing

Odd one this.

I have 12 speed Chorus on a Helium SLA (rim brake) that was built up in fits and starts over the last 6 months. I'd like to use it on the turbo (and Elite Direto II), so I bought a Campag freehub for the Direto.

When the cassette is installed on the turbo, it spins backwards/freewheels perfectly. But when i put the bike on and do up the QR, the cassette locks - it won't spin in either direction. I am certain I've installed the freehub correctly, and the cassette is torqued onto the freehub properly.

To check I wasn't being a numpty, I even tried an 11sp 105 cassette (with the existing Shimano freehub). And while the shifting was predictably shit (11sp Shimano and 12sp Campag unsurprisingly not playing well with each other), the cassette/freewheel spins perfectly.

I would add this problem is unique to the Campag 12sp on the trainer. No problems on the road. I'm baffled, and Elite customer service haven't replied. Any tips gratefully received.

Wondering what I may do about the rust I seem to have recently acquired on the front mudguard bolt and fork crown bolt-hole.

Any decent tips for getting rid of this? Bit of rag soaked in vinegar? Or nowt to worry about and /or bother with?

Many thanks in advance!

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There's no room between cassette-dropout, it just clamps over the cassette. Need a different end cap in the turbo (wild guess)

If you clean the rust it will just do more eventually. Just drip it in thick grease and let it be.

Another vote for in correct end cap.

Thanks chaps. I'm using the end cap/adaptor that came with it for QR (and which works fine for the Shimano cassette). I'll look into the possibility of a different one.

+1 to above - rust forms as there is nothing on the surface of metal to protect from it. Either painting or anodising are off, so plain ol' grease is you best friend. Clean and grease and forget about it.

I'm after a new chain whip tool, I've managed to destroy the one I have. My question, standard chain whip design, or are the plier type any good?
Ta

What's it for? If cassettes and you'll only be using it on ones with a 10 or 11 smallest cog then I've really liked this PRO cassette wrench jobby since getting it.

I like the decathlon version. Does 11-14 tooth smallest cogs, is pleasingly hefty and long for stubborn lockrings and pretty reasonably priced.

Ooh yeah, that looks good.

Cheers both, took me a minute to figure out how they work, will investigate further.