Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

There is a little ball bearing in the quick release mechanism and it's probably getting jammed. I was sure the br-5800 QR was the same as the 6800 and could be disassembled but that looks riveted together.

Steerer tube length should be measured from the crown race seat.

Ive seen stack heights as both a total (top and bottom) and split measurements (15mm bottom, 25mm top or whatever).

Does that help?

Hi - I have Hope Pro 2 Evo Front and rear hubs on a QR disc brake bike.

I want to move them to a thru axle bike (12mm) can someone direct me to the correct adapters to make it work?

Many thanks, L

EDIT: If anyone reading this and is looking for the answer, these might be it but still not 100% sure.

Hope Pro 2 EVO/Pro 4 Rear Thro Conversion Kit - 12mm - HUB241
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-pro-2-evopro-4-rear-thro-conversion-kit-12mm-hub241/

Hope Pro 2/EVO/Pro 4 Front Conversion - 12mm - HUB482
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-pro-2evopro-4-front-conversion-12mm-hub482/

Might sound like a stupid question but I have just bought a frame with internal cable routing, will I be able to just use the cables that are currently on my frame which has external routing?

You can maybe use your current cables in the new frame.

Depends on if you need to use a full, continuous length of cable outer inside the frame, or if the frame has internal stops so there is not much outer sitting inside the frame. Most modern frames will be the latter, in my limited experience.

You may well have to use different ferrules (or no ferrules) depending on the size and shape of the frame inserts.

If the current cables have been on there for a few months it's a good opportunity to replace them. Shifting will improve. I also highly recommend using compressionless brake cables - Jagwire KEB-SL is a great choice.

Yeah, doesn't look like there's a fix unfortunately. There's just a rivet under the cap. Annoying. T hanks anyway.

Anyone had this happen?

Been having an irregular clicking noise on my fixed Roberts for the last few days & I kept looking at the drive train and not finding anything until this today...

1 Attachment

I’d suggest replacement over repair.

Looks like a fair bit of wear on the pins.

Yeah I've found w strange tick/click that you can feel through the pedals has been a plate broken on one side. Never seen it on the connecting link though.

I wonder if someone had overstressed the plate by using quick-link pliers to try and make fitting the spring-clip easier ?

Drilling a brake hole (for a rack) on a ‘92 rockhopper fork - any shops in London that would do it for me? I don’t have a decent enough drill I don’t reckon

Yes by the way cheers!

Swapping a shimano disc caliper. Is it silly to try and re use the o rings?

Trying to think which o rings you mean.. are you talking about the olive?

I have never disc assembled a hydro disc brake before. They are Shimano deore/ slx. I want to use the cable and ends from the deore and switch them to the slx lever and caliper. Quick Google suggested there was two rubber o rings?
I assume both ends just unscrew?

Just a bump on this I asked a while back, willspend a day swapping stuff over Xmas if it's work out OK.

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16290044/

Post some pics if you can.

But I think if they’re o rings either side of the banjo connector from a system that was working with no leaks I think they’ll be ok to use again. If it’s a brass olive I always replace those with new ones.

The official line is you're meant to change the olives (crushable brass washers) every time you disconnect a hose. In reality people often don't bother and a one-time swap ought to be fine. Your risk of course.

Make sure the old and new callipers both use the same style fitting (banjo vs straight).

@grams @MCamb thankyou

Get this done professionally, is my advice. It needs to be done with a pillar drill with the fork held exactly in position. I say this feelingly because when Tom Board built my fixed sometime last century, he didn't get this right. As a result the brake never sat quite square, which drove me nuts. So that fork with its round Columbus track blades now sits in the spares box, unused for over 25 years.

The trick is to do the front and rear separately. If you do a plunge drill from front to back the caliper's unlikely to sit square unless you have a very rigid and accurate fixture. And even then, best not.

I think you're talking about the banjo fitting at the caliper end, reusing the two o rings should be fine if they look OK, reusing olives at the other end is not officially right but generally works fine in practice.

Not refitting the olives, that's silly, but just boshing them in as.

I have no idea what im doing. I have a deore complete caliper lever setup. The caliper is broken.
I have a slx caliper and lever that I'd like to fit the ^ cable too. Hoping it's just a case of unscrewing each end, screwing it into the newer bits and adding some more fluid? I'm ok with the bleeding fluid bit. Just never disassembled before.