Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Battery in the derailleur?

Same as it ever was.
The 4 way junction box is gone and the third receptacle on the new 9200 specific battery can be wired directly to the shifters.

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The shifters will be wireless but the rear system stays the same with a battery in the frame powering the derailleurs. Hence the need for a charging port back there.

Why does my XT junction display work with what I think is an older BTR2 internal battery but a newly-acquired XTR one doesn't (both work fine with another DN110 battery)?

The display junctions don't work with the older battery. Except maybe your magic one

That's what I thought. So if I have a DN110 battery in there after all (I've removed the case to fit it in the bars so haven't got the model number on it anymore), why does the XTR one come up with 'not compatible' with USB etube connection software but works fine on another bike? Magic indeed.

Firmware versions? Possibly one or the other is out of date.

(Don’t assume a brand new one has the latest firmware. And while we’re here don’t ever do firmware updates to the display over Bluetooth unless it’s your only option and you’re willing to risk a bricking)

I had my second and very much weirdest issue with Di2 during Transiberica. The whole lot appears to have 'crashed' at the top of Mont Caro at 4 in the morning and required a trip to a bike shop with me suspecting cable damage, only to find out everything was visible on the computer. Update firmware and everything starts working again - like a "reboot" fixed it. Proper odd. I've never upgraded firmware on any of my Di2 bikes. I wonder if it was something to do with the radio station stuff at the top of Mont Caro or just a random thing.

There's a few "bug fix" entries but who knows if one of those was the same thing.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/firmware.html

Ultegra and DA now 12spd and kind of wireless...
https://bikepacking.com/news/shimano-di2-wireless/

stocks up on 11spd kit

58% faster rear shifting and 45% faster front shifting

Ok.

Can't get faster than no shifting up front though, can you? 1X FTW.

Back to bike bag chat from a few weeks ago. I had to get a new one to fit new mtb. It’s the evoc pro and only just fits my large trail bike and thank fuck for sram axs making removing mech that little bit easier.

Ah, interesting - what does it measure from dropout to dropout? I was thinking of upgrading my old Evoc to the new longer one.

I presume you’re using the Evoc frame?

Approx 128cm but someone has pointed out I could turn the fork around and reduce the length it takes on the stand/frame.

But 2.4” tyres do need deflating.

126cm for my trail bike, sounds like it should be ok.

Had to pack one bike with 1x AXS and one with mechanical Force and dynamo wiring for lights and a USB last week. One took a whole lot more swearing.

Anybody know if the new R9250/R8150 derailleurs will work with the old BT-DN110-A-1 (with the I-EWAD305 plug adapter)?

Got a BT-DN110-A-1 still lying around...

Might be wrong but I thought the cable size had changed. If so, no.

The compatibility chart has been updated:
https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?acid=C-472&cid=C-472

AFAICT there’s zero interoperability between 12 speed and older component worlds apart from the TT shifters.

But someone else posted Di2 cable adapters so you could use the newer, skinnier cables with older ports (maybe)

THIS: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16160340/

Not happening in a world without a Shimano Hack Development Kit

Hello friends of electronic groupsets.

I am trying to remove a Di2 groupset from a frame (I know nothing about Shimano)

I've got the the shifter cables and a junction box and some sort of external port that was in the downtube. Left inside the frame is a front mech cable, rear mech cable and a cable coming out the seattube which must connect to the battery inside the post (how to get the battery out of the post is another question!).

I can't seem to remove these three cables, I'm assuming they are plugged into something but can't locate it. Have pulled them out and pushed them back in but can't figure out what they attached to. Bottom bracket has a sleeve in it, don't want to have to remove the bearings to get that out if I don't need to.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

There will be an internal junction box, probably in the down tube, just above the bb shell, which those cables will be plugged into.

Cheers mate. I'm guessing this would be accessed from the bottom bracket?

Am I going to fuck something if I just yank on one of the cables to try and dislodge it? Would I be able to pull it out of the seat tube if the other cables weren't attached.

Thanks!

The cables are worth like £15 each, so don’t yank on them!

They usually come out via the seat tube, but you may have to remove the BB or even the fork for full access.

All sorted now! Coat hanger saved the day, both with fishing the junction box out of the frame and also the battery out of the seat post. Thanks all.