Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

they're doing it wrong.

sorry they're 35c my bad

Tyre worms, where should I buy some without spending more than what I paid for the whole kit? (£5/£7 that is)

https://www.merlincycles.com/maxalami-road-tubeless-plug-refill-kit-110347.html

I think I got these last time, lots of plugs [https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/birzman-tubeless-repair-kit-tyre-plugs/rp-prod197707]

Two questions

1) What is the shelf life of Stan's sealant once open?
I have a pre-lockdown part used 1L bottle which I have resealed well using a double layer of cling film before closing. Circa 24 months of age - Vintage 2019.
Consistency looks ok, no lumps in there so I've convinced myself it's fine but happy to hear otherwise.

2) What is the latest @gbj_tester recommended sealant?
I would like to think that technology has evolved in the last 2 years and they're a better / more durable / more sealing option available

Pulled this out of my tyre on Saturday

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What is the latest @gbj_tester recommended sealant?

Inner tubes🙂

My tubeless bikes are also my geared bikes, and I haven't touched either since 2018

Any tips for removing a stubborn seated tyre? Valve has gone so need to replace it- cannot for the life of me get the tyre to unseat. This is a pro 1 on a Reynolds assault rim

I've bought some wheels which are set up with tubeless tape.
I'm going to run them with tubes initially. Is this ok with the tape?

First go at tubeless, 38mm G-One Speeds (one old branding one new, stock issues) on Hunt Aero Race Wide rims with Milkit valves. Quite tight to get on and then took a couple of goes at getting the valves to nestle just right for some reason, but once I got that right they seated easily with a track pump and are holding air just fine.

No sealant yet, I've got the Milkit syringe thing and a bottle of Stan's, so it should just be a case of letting air out to around 20psi, valve cores out, inject some sealant, cores back in, pump back up again and good to go, right?

Or is this where it all turns into a jizzy mess?

Wheels built up by Martin/Arkane in case anyone was wondering; DT Swiss track hubs, Pillar Wing 20/21 spokes.

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Air out fully but otherwise, yep, crack on!

I can imagine the problems of trying to force sealant in against are at 20psi trying to come out.

Interesting, Milkit website says to pre-inflate to 22psi because their valves have some fancy flaps that don't let air out?

https://milkit.bike/valve-system/

I'm more inclined to go with letting all the air out to be honest...

after firing a valve core across the room

Yep!

Thanks

Always been fine for me.

EDIT: should really read to the bottom to see if someone else has answered before replying

Cheers Andy

Trying my panaracer gravel king sks tubeless, after initially running them tubed for a few months. The SKs have actually been fine, never had a puncture, however...
On setting up tubeless noticed there is a small side wall tear that I had noticed before (as it hadn't punctured the inner tube). Was initially leaking air, but I topped up with more sealant and it seems to have sealed now.

Safe to ride, or will it fail at some point mid ride?

My crystal ball is on strike.

Try it any see. If it pisses air out put an anchovy in. If that fails you can always revert to inner tube.

Wasn't sure if anchovy in a sidewall was recommended? But worth a go as a roadside fix before trying the alternatives I guess.

I like to buy big ones.

3.5mm dia https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-X-BLACK-TYRE-REPAIR-STRING-HEAVY-DUTY-THIN-INSERTS-PLUGS-8-3-5MM-/153931324498?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

A slice or tear usually requires using an inner tube

Then you cut them in half?