Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Does that mean you need a 1 1/8 quill?

Ideally yeah, the only new stem I've seen I'd want to use on the bike is the Nitto MT-11 but they seem to be sold out everywhere.

Well you can buy a shim to fit a 1” quill stem in a 1 1/8” threaded fork steerer https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Shim-to-Fit-1-Inch-22-2-mm-Quill-Stem-to-1-1-8-Inch-Forks-/193653881253?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I’d prefer to buy a 1 1/8” quill though

I have the Kinesis GF Titanium bike, just wondering the max tyre size I could comfortably fit? I've been trying to find info online but no answers. I have the DT Swiss PR 1600 Spline 32 Disc Road Wheelset. I'm looking to do some off road/gravel riding.

Photos attached currently show Mile Muncher 700 x 30c tyres fitted. Ideally I'd like to go 700x35 or even 700x38. Looks possible or nay?

2 Attachments

Front, no. Rear, maybe. A tape measure or other measuring device is probably going to give a more definitive answer.

Has any one got access to the instructions for a velo orange threadless headset? One got confused. Specifically about the silver split ring part labelled "BH"

I assume it's meant to be the "right way up" and on the top between the bearing and the curved bit (conical spacer?) that goes before the spacers?

Before I buy the wrong frame...

I presume SRAM AXS Red cranks fit a BB386Evo frameset with this BB?

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/SRAM/DUB-BB386-Road-Bottom-Bracket/KYG2

Currently running the cranks in a threaded 68mm BB with Hope 30mm BB and DUB adapter

I don't see why that wouldn't work

cheers

Any hope hub aficionados?

My Pro2 ss hub has started ghost pedaling after I took the freehub off, gave it a wipe and applied some oil to the pawls and springs.

As far as I can see I’ve put it back together properly.

Any ideas?

Did you pop the seal firmly in place . They can be quite hard in which case pop it in boiling water first.

Was gonna say it's probably the seal.

The black kinda hard plastic one between the freehub body and hub shell? Pretty sure it’s properly seated but will double check. Ta.

Yep grab the freehub with a gloved hand and yank that fker off, clean check nothing has fallen out or is missing then twist and push it back on. Checking the end cap seal as well and popped on properly.

Just picked up a rear wheel for turbo duty. It's clearly had a hard life. There's play in the freehub, so that the cassette has play in it when installed.

I took the freehub body off - axle out, loose bearings out, clean and regrease, then reassemble. Tightening the freehub body onto the hub doesn't remove the play. With the freehub in hand I can feel the wobble. Is it worth servicing?

I didn't have the tool to remove the bearing cone pictured:

Would tightening that remove the play? Or is the problem more terminal/harder to solve than that?

It's just a £30 turbo wheel, so not of great consequence how well it performs. Seems like a new freehub body would be about £20, but that's a bit rich considering what I paid in the first place.

They're not generally considered serviceable parts, if you've got an abundance of time you could try but I'd either replace it or ignore it if it's not important on the turbo.

Advice - portable/pocketable torque wrench recommendations? Anyone used one of these?

https://www.bikester.co.uk/feedback-sports-torque-wrench-bike-tool-2-10nm-with-14pcs-bit-set-red-black-972965.html?_cid=21_1_-1_9_2507_972965_524292382310_pla&ef_id=CjwKCAjw87SHBhBiEiwAukSeUeY04UvNN4E5C549Dvpk_erQyiCZaRjZWeaJCM8VgdS-bivefx4gRRoCnCMQAvD_BwE:G:s&campaign_detail=smart_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw87SHBhBiEiwAukSeUeY04UvNN4E5C549Dvpk_erQyiCZaRjZWeaJCM8VgdS-bivefx4gRRoCnCMQAvD_BwE

Silca but expensive.

Have just done one, more out of interest than need. It is on a turbo wheel.

New balls sorted it for me !!!!

Made the cone removal tool out of an old socket .

Ah cool, was it easy to source the right BBs? Where did you get them from? I'm half tempted to try it, but don't have a sacrificial socket. I'll have a think for bodge-able alternatives.

Useful reply. At least if it goes completely wrong I can console myself that no-one else really bothers.

Why would the hub wobble on the drive side of a new 700C rim brake rear wheel if I hold the wheel by it’s axle and spin it, but the rim spins round and true?

I replaced the axle so I don’t think it’s that. If it were I would expect the rim to wobble as well.

The bearings are all in place. The cones and nuts are nicely tightened. I’ve triple checked, and removed the dust caps so can confirm.

If the wheel was assembled wrong, wouldn’t the hub spin true around the axle, and the rim would wobble?

After they assemble wheels they use a machine (or human) to adjust the spokes until the rim doesn't wobble. If the hub were manufactured out of true - and it sounds like it was - it would be cancelled out by the spoke truing.

Probably still rideable. Depends how bad and it is and how much you care how it looks.

It’s pretty noticeable, to the point I’d rather have it replaced than spend more time doing hub services in a few months. Actually, would this 2mm off centre wobble affect the load on the bearings, spokes, rim? Its noticeable but I don’t want to sink much more time into it, unless it means leaving my MIL with a subpar wheel that will break down. I can’t say for certain without my glasses but it all looks built symmetrical enough, except it’s not.

Probably alright for light riding, but if you like your MIL then get her a nicer wheel