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do you mean that it's a thin layer of epoxy?
Not just thin, but reducing in thickness down to nothing. This is because the mangling of the thread only on one side at one end effectively makes the hole tapered. I don't really want to glue a pedal in there, what I want to do is provide support where the thread is mashed in order to stop any flex of the joint, which would increase strain on the intact threads and increase their chance of failure. I worry that very thin epoxy would crack and flake out with any movement and so not do that job (plus, I don't want to glue the pedal in).
ffm-
Ok fair. I appreciate that gluing a pedal in is not the ideal option.
And I would agree that building threads from pure epoxy resin could just result in little thread-shaped shards of epoxy on the floor (as opposed to JB Weld which sounds more suited).
FWIW I would also start by screwing a pedal from behind as @PhilDAS and a few others have mentioned - provided you can find one with a long enough threaded axle.
Ndeipi
@Brommers interesting! Every day is a school day. Makes sense.
@ffm
...do you mean that it's a thin layer of epoxy? If so I don't think that's a problem. Epoxy is used in laminates and the thicknesses are very low. A thin wafer of epoxy resin by itself would not be strong, but luckily in this application it would holding together a nice metal sandwich. You know, a sort of spiral sandwich.
I think what is most important is the size of the surface area available for the epoxy to grab onto. Should be heaps here.
As @Brommers said, if the epoxy (or JB Weld) cures with the pedal in the crank, it's never coming loose.