Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I’ve done that before and made a right pigs ear of it - I mean, it worked, but it looked pretty messy. This looked like it would need a fair bit of persuading to bend enough to fit, so I wanted to try something that might look a bit neater.

I have ridden it like this now, with a bit of weight on the rack and did some emergency breaking. No fiery death straight away, which is something :-)
Also no annoying rattle, although I’ll still put a slightly longer bolt in when it arrives.

First time having to replace the brake pads on my HT.
I have Shimano hydro XT set-up, IIRC.

1. how do I know which replacement part to order? Is there some online database somewhere?

2. what's the narrowest 'summer' tyres I could run on Boost axle hubs? (currently running 'grippy' 2.8" which I feel are OTT for spring/summer riding)

Pads are probably Shimano g or j depending on if you want fins or not, assuming they're not new 4 pot XT or a too old to come on something with boost as a standard, so G04S for sintered steel backed etc.

Tyre is rim width based rather than hub, if the bike came with 2.8s you've probably got something around a 30mm rim, so maybe a nice 2.5 would be good.

Will a 4700 clutch rear mech work with a 10 speed 6700 shifter to run a miche 36 rear ?

Or
Shimano GRX RD-RX400 10-Speed Shadow+ Rear Derailleur

Thanks. Much helpful. I haven't bought mtb tyres in a long time (like never probably), and am astonished by the prices charged PER TYRE.

They should be the only part of the bike on the floor most of the time, you want them to be good.

Both of those use the “new 10 speed” pull ratio and won’t work with 6700 shifters.

A 9 speed (not 10 speed!) MTB clutch mech will have the right ratio.

Thanks

Any idea if this is paint or aluminium crack? Thanks!

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The cute spider crack looks like just paint, but the tube has had a fair whack and is pretty dented.

Thanks

Cheers (and cheers to @snottyotter as well). There's no spacer between cassette and hub—I think I'm just gonna have to go back to an 11t.

What's stopping me from running bearings with just a dusting of PTFE powder instead of grease? Just been thinking about it after experimenting with chain waxing, and having a big bag of PTFE kicking around. If lubrication is about stopping metal on metal contact, and I'm not running the bearing in a situation that needs water keeping out (bearing has a shield anyway) then wouldn't a low friction powder work quite well? Someone with more engineering experience than myself, enlighten me.

Guess it wouldn't stick where it's needed and end up getting chucked around the lower part of the bearing like forgotten spare change in a washing machine.

A fork with a little more rake solved the fit problem on the Graham Weigh frame I posted about, just in case anybody was curious. The stock forks were very "tracky"

Hi, I’m having this problem where a slit appears just above the bead of my front tyre, it’s happened on three different tyres and on two different wheels.
What am I doing to cause this?

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Second tyre

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Does it happen in the same place relative to the rim every time?

Are you using tyre levers to install the tyre? Or running on flat tyres or under inflated tyres?

I had a few tyres do this a while back, turned out I was over inflating.

Rim brake?

@snottyotter yes, rim brake, I suspected that maybe my pads were too high but wasn’t sure, is that possibly the cause?

Possibly, worth checking.

This happened to me years ago, I stupidly thought I had shit tires.

On a steel road bike, the tire is closer to one fork blade than the other, it stays closer to the same fork blade when flipped around, suggesting the fork is misaligned/slightly bent.

Can any decent bike shop sort this? How much should I expect to pay?