Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

yes

Thanks, please be more concise next time :)

no

I lol'd

Soz noob here, there's play in my front hub, is it likely to be bearings need replacing, the hubs are sach 5 maillard.

New balls required, they are loose ball type bearings and most likely something like 5/32".

Though it could just need adjustment being cup and cone.

IIRC on an old rear maillard hub the balls were different sizes on each side. May not apply to yours as this was a helicomatic hub.

Thanks I'll have a go at getting in there then.

The shift paddle retaining pin (?) of my Sram HRD lever keeps falling out. Not sure when it started. I can take the whole pin out and re insert it no problem. The end of thr pin has a recessed groove, perhaps for a retaining c clip or something.

Does anyone have any experience with it? I couldn't find a replacement pin online, maybe I'm googling the wrong thing.

1 Attachment

Jana has had this bike for 7+ years and has never riden it because she has bad toe overlap problems with it. Jana is about 5'2" tall and the top tube of this bike measures 52cm. The cranks are 165mm. Even with gentle turns, there is not far off 5cm of toe overlap.

Does this mean this is a frame intended for 650c and not 700c?

If we bought some 650c wheels, will it be easy enough to find a brake caliper to fit the new rims? I assume, based on age and provenance of the bike, that the fork was drilled for front brake after manufacture.

Shall we give up on it? Or shall we try smaller wheels? Reckon a less straight fork might solve the problem? Edit: Just took forks off and measured rake....20mm.

@edscoble is a small bike specialist now days I believe :D

2 Attachments

I think they come with the shift paddle - https://www.deporvillage.net/sram-leva-red22-gear-lever-left?country=GB&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrO7o3L-A8QIVSvlRCh0G-gaCEAQYASABEgKJyfD_BwE

I might have one at home from a spare I broke a few years back. I'll have a look and dm you if I do

Life saver, thanks. As I say I think it's the retaining clip. I haven't had a chance to properly look yet

I have a frame where the front wheel can hit the pedals. I’ve done thousands of miles on it. It only matters at very low speed.

Looking for ideas on repairing an old Profile Design Airstryke ZB aerobar.
Specifically, one of the armrests is broken, and a cursory search hasn’t turned up much in the way of replacement parts. Are there aftermarket options for these things?
This is for a friend of a friend and I’m not really up on the the world of tucked riding.

1 Attachment

Are there any issues with having a front rack mounted like this? I need to clear the canti straddle cable and the only way I can easily do that is to have a long spaced out bolt so the rack tab attaches in front of the straddle cable. In the photo it’s a 70mm bolt and the straddle and rack tab are just touching. I’ve ordered an 80mm bolt so it clears.

Am I putting too much leverage anywhere? Risk of fiery death?

1 Attachment

Sure, I'm pretty sure most of us have had bikes with toe overlap at some point. This is unrideable though.

If it was made for the track then toe overlap isn't really a problem, swapping to 650c will swap toe overlap issues for pedal strike ones, how high is the BB at the moment?

You could of course put a hole through the middle of the rack tab for the cable to pass through with the tab abutting the fork.
But generally the top rack tap is just to stabilise rather than a load carrier per se.

Yeah, you have a point there. Whilst impossible to turn corners on London streets, the toe overlap would be fine on the track. Will measure BB amd give it a think. Pedal strike hadn't even occurred to me.

I've bought a cheapo pair of 2nd hand forks with double the rake. If that doesn't work out better I think we'll sell the frameset on. Shame really, it's a lovely hunk of 853.

A little adjustment got rid of the play, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Hi, probably a trivial question but if I remove this single speed cog would a fixed one fit? Thanks

2 Attachments

Yes, but probably not a lockring unless it's a fixed hub, which it probably isn't.

Ah ok thanks. Is a lockring necessary?

It did occur to me to do that, but I think ultimately it’s more faff than I’m willing to accept! As long as, as you say, it’s not particularly high load-bearing then hopefully the current bodge will be fine.

Depends on what you're using the bike for, but if you intend on slowing yourself down using the drivechain then yeah, otherwise you're likely to remove the cog when doing so.

Grrr ok so basically if I want to use that have to keep it single speed? Thanks