Dammit’s adventures in mountain biking

Did anyone want that Burgtec bar or should I eBay it?

In "only have to find a bikeshop in extremis" news, my toolbox/toolchest is coming along.

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bakeshop

I think your chest probably needs a few more buns and cakes before you're truly self-sufficient.

You appear to have vital components missing from your toolkit

On Sam and Jim's farewell ride, in one section of trail, I heard and felt my bike using it's bash-guard to protect the chainring from the logs we were going over. I'd like to be able to for e.g. change a chainring if I'm somewhere for one or two weeks - hence larger, bottom box.

If I'm somewhere for a day or two I'll just bend the ring back into (rough) shape (top box).

The top box gets slung in the car for going to Rogate/etc, top and bottom for going to Morzine.

That's the idea anyway.

Does this mean you're also carrying a spare chainring in the bottom box?

If the chainring is aluminium and bends rather than snapping,I think you'll be lucky.

I'm making the assumption that I can buy a chainring. If I'm in the UK then Wiggle can get me one next-day, for example.

My frame has internal routing for the dropper and the rear brake, both of which are hydraulic.

I need to strip the frame down to send it back to Pace (more on this follows), which means I'll need to cut the hose for the rear brake as the olive won't go through the holes in the frame.

I don't know how long the frame will be away, so my thinking is to put a fresh olive and barb in the hose and reconnect to the lever, but of course I'd need to cut the hose again when the frame comes back. This seems a bit wasteful, but I can't think of another way of doing it which doesn't involve this, but I'm also concerned about shortening the hose too much (possibly, might be fine).

The dropper I think I can just pull through and re-connect, as it has large rubber grommets.

Thoughts, hive-mind?

Also, could anyone lucky enough to live on the Continent who might be willing to post me a crank please make themselves known?

What is the service or failure interval for this bike? Can I get the build spec so I know what to avoid if I ever get a new mountain bike?

Cut hose near brake lever and put a rubber hood on either end of the hosing?

This generally what bike come like in boxes before we build them.

Don’t suppose you have some of these hoods spare?

Cranks- 172mm Q factor or thereabouts, Shimano 12 speed tooth profile, 52mm chain line and 165mm length. What fits this bill?

Other than M8100 XT, of course.

XTR is just (4mm) too narrow and I’m shaving the chain slap rubber thing on the DS.

XTR is just (4mm) too narrow

Dibs

M9120, 165mm, and will be for sale if we can find a (slightly wider) replacement

Take a knife and cut away a tiny bit of the chainslaprubberthingy? Hand forged damascus steel boutique knife ofcourse...

Hand forged damascus steel boutique knife

Will that go in the top half of the toolbox or the bottom half?

Would take these 165mm cranks and ring if the above @psg1ben dibs isn't serious.

Finding non shimano cranks that have a 12 speed tooth profile is a bit tricky.

I bought a chainring from North Shore Billet for my imminent AXS/Shimano hybrid system.

I've no idea about Q factor but raceface will probably do something that fits the bill.
They use the Cinch system that's very similar if not identical to the cannondale axle/arm interface. It's so similar I think it must have been licensed.
I'll measure the Q factor on mine.

It doesn’t hit the chainstay, and another 2mm of clearance would stop it hitting the rubber. It’s closer than the manual specifies though (7mm).

It was serious but I guess price dependent and I should probably do more to help find the replacement before going after it so quickly. It's only an upgrade for the cargo bike or something so no dramas, maybe you need it more 🤷🏽‍♂️

EDC I think.

Table five here shows the Q factors of the various cranks.
When buying the arms the usually come with the 136mm axle.
The Next R cranks would give 176mm Q factor or 174mm if you get the shorter 134mm axle.

Close enough?

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Yeah it isn't vitally important to me either.
I'd just like to go down to 165mm cranks for less pedal strikes on one of my mtbs that's got a very low bb.

Ha, it's pedal strikes I'm trying to avoid on the cargo bike as well.