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I never bother adjusting to meet the chip strip for mitres, just compensate 1.5mm like you’re doing.
45 deg does work the saw much harder as you’re cutting like 1.5x the material, but in MDF it should be fine. I always clamp and go slow doing mitres in birch ply. Often put a coarser blade it too I think. I’ve never had a problem with the angle being off though. I guess you could fiddle what the clearance / tightness adjustment of the rail grooves. Only way I could see the angle being off is if the saw is lifting off the track so I’d be concentrating on keeping my thumb of my left hand on the little bit made for it and pushing nice and straight along the track with plenty of downward pressure. Could just be a bit of a blunt blade showing itself up when put under a bit of pressure.
Butt joints FTW 😉
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dbr
@Nef
@dbr or any other Mafell track saw users. I've had my Mt55c back out in daily use for the first time in a while, alongside a Festool. Definitely glad I got the Mafell by comparison. The one issue I've been having is that making a 45 deg mitre cut is a total ballache. Even with rail and workpiece clamped, the saw doesn't feel that happy being pushed along the track - feels dead sticky. And then the mitres themselves seem way off when I put the pieces together.
I've been making plinths and display walls for 3 weeks with it and it hasn't skipped a beat, cutting 18mm sheet all day long. Dead accurate cuts etc, but with the mitre cuts it feels like a shitshow. Any tips?
Also, there's a load of talk about making adjustments to get it so the mitre cut is bang on the rail's splinter guard, but since I've been working with MDF, I've just moved the cutting mark by 1.5mm and they've all come out bang on (aside from the mitres themselves being a bit shit).