Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

;-P

@gbj_tester and @Skülly and @Brommers thanks.
Every day is a school day.

There's apparently a 11 speed freehub
http://www.nguide.eu/hubs/d712sb-b12

I only just built my first wheelset using sub 1.8mm spokes, and the windup thing was quite a battle compared to thicker spokes I'm used to. Found after a while that I was able to feel the grip and slip of the nipples esp' when doing the backing off quite smoothly and with purpose.

I may actually be doing that without fully realizing as I try to keep nipple edges aligned at easily discernible angles over the course of the build, going past them by a bit and then bringing them back. I don’t think there’s any good reason for the alignment thing, but if it’s been keeping the spokes from winding up, well good.

Yep me too. I try to keep nipples square on before truing too, so that applying the tool is easier on each spoke by holding it in the same way...

So we still saying not much point going with CX rays over cheaper round spokes?

I mean, they're better right, easier to build with and aero, just cost a lot. I decided to go for CX ray on the build before last as I only needed 18 for a front wheel.
Built the rear last night and went for DT aero comp instead.

Nothing wrong with a round spoke though

I think I was the only one saying that...
Consensus seems to be bladed is easier though maybe Pillar would be just fine and a lot cheaper.

D-Light were OK to build, just make sure you do plenty of back-off.

Thanks!
I've asked @cycleclinic on their website. So hopefully get an answer in a day or two.

Do you need keyed / slotted or whatever they’re called holes with pillar spokes? In the hub flange

Do you need keyed / slotted or whatever they’re called holes with pillar spokes?

They do many models, some of which need keyholes, but the most popular are similar to CX-Rays and DT Aerolites in that the major axis of the blade is 2.2-2.3mm and will fit through normal round holes.

Up to 2.3mm spoke width, no. For the commonly used Pillar 1422 spokes, no - 2.2mm wide.

I'm sure this has been asked lots before but my searching is rubbish. What's the best of the cheapish lightweight wheel truing stands? Or are they all pretty much the same? Preferably one that comes with thru-axle adaptors.

I've taken a freehub off. and I've out the new one in. It's greased. It spins. It spins ok. I put the cassette on. It slows a bit. and feels like it might be dragging (hand spinning only). So might be subjective.

Cassette off. Free hub off. Checked seal not fouling pawls. Doesn't appear to. All back on spins. Cassette on. Doesn't spin so well

I may be wrong but I don’t think there is a consensus on any stand-out product. All work. Nicer ones are ... nicer/faster/more-convenient. Diminishing returns kick-in pretty quickly.

Has anyone had any experience with the newer Gipiemme Nisi Sludi 390 rims in 32h? Mixed reviews online mentioning weld failures but I think they may be for older versions which didn't have eyelets?

I want to build some very low profile, rim brake clincher wheels and these are very impressively light!

Good places to buy spikes in south London? Or a good online spot? Cheers

Good places to buy spikes

Running type or for displaying the severed heads of traitors?

I think he means sporks.

I did in fact mean spokes, but I do have some severed heads lying around 🤔

So I want to build a coaster wheel for a 130 mm frame.

The hub is a 110 mm OLN Shimano CB-E110. The standard axle is 150 mm, I'll take it out and replace it with a 180 mm axle. I'll add 15 mm of spacers on the NDS and 5 mm on the DS. This will help with the chainline. This means I'll need to dish the wheel towards the NDS right?

If you're building it from scratch you just what you do for most normal frames, which is make sure there is no dish.