Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Pull the bottom of the chain downward and forward and try to reseat it on the chainring one tooth forward of where it currently is. If you can do that without the rear mech objecting you’re good.

(You only need one spare chain link for a two tooth increase in chainring)

Can you pinch the chain together to simulate the extra 2 teeth when it's in big/big? Looks like it'll be toight but maybe ok.

Or that^.

Is that an oval ring on the front?

Thanks for this by the way. I'll try it and see.

I don’t really understand wave washers.

Are they specific to a crankset or to a frame?

I’ve swapped a like for like crankset onto my turbo bike (same spindle diameter and width) to free up my power meter and used exactly the same bearing covers and washers but the cranks are binding when tightened properly. Shall I try and add more wave washers?

They don’t seem as though they’re thick or rigid enough to do much.

Remove the washer and try again.

The washers are there to make up for small differences in bottom bracket shell width. This is because the crank spindles are a set length (in systems other than Shimano's) and mean you don't get to change the distance between the cranks. So manufacturers set the spindle length quite long to allow for the widest BB shells and then supply wavy washers for all the rest of us who don't have the widest shells.

This is why, on some bikes with say Campagnolo UT cranks, you can go to the NDS and push the crank inboard 1-2 mm, compressing that washer. Release and it'll return.

You've just found a frame with a slightly wider shell.

Thanks - I’ll give that a go.

It’s the same bottom bracket (BB386 adaptor for BSA) and frame so it should require the same spacers.

There’s a chance I’ve dropped something of course.

I’m anticipating a similar amount of confusion when it’s time to put the power meter on my new bike. BB386 cranks on a BB386 frame. Should be a piece of piss right?

i am late to the "party" ....transforming this to single speed? please dont..... (its your bike...i dont have a say in this....dont do it! poor daccordi)

Yeah I'm sure it'll present absolutely no small yet very frustrating complications.

Yes I know it's gonna be a slight shame but:

1) I hardly ever change gear in London.

2) I'm going to build another geared road bike without mudguards. I don't need two geared road bikes without mudguards! This can fill a different role - simple, nippy, easy to clean.

3) I once worked at Mottainai Cycles in Melbourne. We often made SS restorations of vintage road bikes for customers. They were great fun but I never had one myself. Now's the time!

:) i totally understand the points you make, and i am sure you will not cut anything from the bike!
no one "needs" two geared road bikes without mudguards ... but still ;)

Chris King Classic hub (10s): what spacers do you need for a 10s cassette?

@dancing james?

Need a 130mm 5 bolt 39t chainring for my SSCX build. The rear cog is 1/8, as is the chain, but I don't seem to be able to find a chainring in 1/8. What's my best bet for getting something durable - just try and get a narrow wide or stainless ring? What are my options other than race face NW or Surly stainless? Budget would be best (it is a beater after all!).

These guys were getting some attention in Stainless Steel Chainrings thread here https://www.bikepunx.com/5x130-bcd-chainrings-194-c.asp

Legend! Stainless, 1/8, and reasonably priced - sold on the spot!

One of the disc brake calliper screw holes on my fork is tight, makes it a pain in the ass to adjust the calliper and get the correct torque. I've tried googling what the fix is but all I can find is info about a stripped thread. Is there a tool or correct term I can search?

Use a tap to clean the threads

Nice one, cheers, I knew I was just being a bit thick.

Another tool for the toolbox it is!

You might get one from velosolo too

Bikepunx £30 posted for stainless and 1/8 couldn’t be beaten I’m afraid.

Thanks @grams and @snottyotter
@scultura - yeah it was oval. Gone to a round 52 now. Think this looks borderline but probably ok.

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You may need a bottoming tap if you need to clean threads towards the bottom of the hole.

Yes borderline. Don't think I'd be putting much power through it like that.

Could you tap it for M6?