Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

This is the one I removed recently. Correction to the above I just needed to take off the smallest sprockets to get at the face plate. The notches weren’t too bad but my tool is pretty ruined (in pic too) and was slipping.

Teeth on the tool are 5.2mm wide. You could always file down a copper pipe 😉

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Loving the Regina Gran Sport info. The 5 speed (15-26) I have came on my '53 Ellis Briggs and carries the date code 855. I'd wrongly assumed it was from the 70s. It was mounted on F.B. low flange flip-flop hub with tied and soldered spokes on a weinmann rim. The freewheel is unfortunately a bit loose and rough sounding.

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Another option is to remove the axle and use a metal bar across the notches.
Both prongs snapped off my tool when I tried to remove a Regina freewheel so I used the following method.

1.Remove smallest cog - I clamped the freewheel between workmate jaws and used a chainwhip (alternatively use two chainwhips).
2.Remove axle - I think I inserted a screwdriver in the freewheel side against the nut flat to stop it turning whilst unscrewing the non-drive side nuts.
3.Clamp the chainwhip tool in a vice (mine has a metal plate section that is just the right size to fit the notches. substitute with any suitable metal bar).
4.Rest the wheel with freewheel face down onto the chainwhip with notches engaged with bar section.
5.Turn the whole wheel to unscrew the freewheel. This gives more leverage than trying to hold the wheel steady and turning the tool.

Ah that’s great, thanks for info.

I did fully service one a couple of years ago. The idea of taking off the face plate with a pin spanner is a joke, I’ve had to use a punch and a hammer both times I’ve taken one off. Maybe now I know what penetrating oil actually is that might help, but still servicing can be destructive.

When I got it open I just found I really needn’t have bothered. And to get the balls and pawls back in and the outer body on, you need at least three hands.

Getting the sprockets off with 2 chainwhips is ok as @benjaminbunny says. You probably won’t be able to get the last one off, but at least you can give them all a good clean including the one left on the body. I’ve started just soaking in paraffin scrubbing and spinning for a few soaking cycles, then flush with wd40, then I feed in Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (I’m sure there are other equally good options - I have a little bottle and pretty much only use it in freewheels).

That has made a couple of gritty feeling freewheels turn nicely again.

If there’s play in it I don‘t think you can do much about it. And it probably came like it. The one I fully serviced was an Oro so should be the best quality but it had play - just felt like the 2 thin (shim?) washers inside were too thick. I tried without one and it bound, and with both there was play. I couldn’t get it just right.

As far as I know tolerances were just a bit sloppy. Why Japanese freewheels took over! A Suntour from the 70s is likely to be more precisely made than European equivalents.

@benjaminbunny thanks for corroborating! I suspect your method is appealing to @absurdbird as it doesn’t involve buying an expensive tool!

I suspect your method is appealing to @absurdbird as it doesn’t involve buying an expensive tool!

I love buying expensive tools - providing I’m going to use them often (unlike the pair of Phil Wood BB insertion tools I bought at vast expense and used twice)

Cheap tools are depressing and generally fuck up whatever it is you’re working on.
I have a (discontinued) Dura Ace chain whip that is just gorgeous.

Why Japanese freewheels took over! A Suntour from the 70s is likely to be more precisely made than European equivalents.

Japanese bike parts from the 70/80s are as well made as bike parts ever were, probably the best ever tbh, also some very intelligent design.

Not only did Suntour design the modern rear derailleur they perfected a splined sprocket/freewheel body interface that left Regina and Sachs et al looking very old school. Also the twisted tooth pattern really helped shifting.

It’s sad that often the older European components are, the better made they are also.

Does anyone know about compatibility of Regina sprockets across different bodies and eras?
If I have to frankenfreewheel

Didn't mean you were cheap, just handy ;)

I was flattered you thought I'd be able to file the end of a copper pipe so the ID was 26.6mm and cutting sharp :D And then not fuck something up with it!

Anyway, long story short, make sure you get that grubby one still in the wheel if possible. £20 to have a crack at it is fine imo. And don't spend on the tool, try @benjaminbunny's approach first!

Another option is to remove the axle and use a metal bar across the notches.

I had already envisioned this as a solution. Getting a really good fit between the bar and the notches is probably advised though?

If you’re removing the freewheel body without using the notches, taking off the sprockets and I guess the outer moveable part of the body what do you have to grab onto with the vice?

I suspect they are compatible. It would have been a pretty bold move to change the theaded diameters. I took the smallest cogs off that 83 Regina to try in the first position of my 54. I'll try and have a go at that next week and let you know.

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I was flattered you thought I'd be able to file the end of a copper pipe so the ID was 26.6mm

I always presume ability.
Years of art school, then festival/party scene then employing mates on building jobs, I’ve realised faith and foresight can get a lot accomplished.

Also what is there to fuck up? It’s just a bit of felt.

By the way a cheap plumbers pipe reamer would do the work for you.

https://monumenthandtools.co.uk/monument-internal-external-deburrer-up-to-38mm-mon365f?gclid=CjwKCAiA4rGCBhAQEiwAelVti5NNDb1z_x7Jn1W8RAq1f04AFhA5Cbxc6CzNHQAY3vtGGbtQqACquBoCBxMQAvD_BwE

Maybe now I know what penetrating oil actually is that might help

Heat is really helpful too.
Really heat those bits up!

Yeah I can only guess a better fit will help, the Var tool I have is not a snug fit but clamping it in with a skewer and hernia inducing force means the contacts are pretty solid.

The bits in the side where the pawls go give purchase for a vice / tools. I would have been more wary of it if I wanted to keep that body, but I just wanted it off. Looking at it now though I've not done any damage.

I dont think those rims are pista either! I will post some side by side comparison photos later

That would be great.

I have a (discontinued) Dura Ace chain whip that is just gorgeous

Can't beat DA tools IMO -

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Snap
(My tool storage needs an intervention)

Yours is marked ‘10’ must’ve been a 10mm pitch chainwhip once?

#greatideasthatweren’t

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Yeah, Part of a 10 pitch group which I've not used yet :)

Ooooh rare stuff!!

And actually a very good idea.

Both my gran sport freewheels have no stamp, I wonder when they started/stopped doing that!

So the pista rim is 19mm wide & the road is 21mm

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Nice thanks for the side-by-side. Looking at that Ebay listing on the bigger screen of my computer I'm not so sure anymore. Some pics look decidedly trapezoid! Also they are earlier than I previously wrote - as far as I can see there is the "Brevetto Longhi" stamping, it's just mostly rubbed off. That makes them pre 1959 as far as I know.

Looking at the spoke holes on the pista they are hitting the edges unlike the roadies. The road Fiamme rims still have a bit of an angled braking surface on them. The ebay seller may have a set of calipers to take a measurement of the rims

Thanks for the photographs of the comparison.

Removing Tubular Cement

Anyone got any top tips for the really old, dry, thick, hard stuff. Like treacle but on like asphalt only harder? I'm guessing someone is going to say heat! I've just had a filthy morning with a front wheel.

Rubbing with an acetone soaked cloth just tickled it. Previous session with parafin and a brass bristle brush got about half off. This time I tried Acetone and the brush - not much difference apart from a nasty high. Then my dremel with a rotary wire brush and a rough grit buffing wheel which has got most of it off.

I still have the back wheel to do though so would like something that doesn't take 4 hours! I have seem heat recommended elsewhere and do have a little blowtorch somewhere, not sure what the likelihood of ruining the rim is though.

N.B. I tried soaking in Goo Gone as per some other forum thread but didn't even soften it.