absurdbird
Member since May 2010 • Last active Jan 2024Most recent activity
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- 11 comments
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I haven’t put them in yet.
I thought I’d test the innards first and it got late last night …My engineer mate said silicone on the back of the capacitor will be fine , but I need to work a way to mount the little B&M clear lens that fits over the LED (I have to rotate the PCB by 90° to fit it inside the red lens)
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Nitto Porteur bars
Mafac inverse levers
Cinelli 1A
MicroSHIFT thumbie for Sram 1x12 EagleI’ve had these bars and levers for about 15 years - that’s how long I’ve been meaning to build a porteur (since I saw them in Jan Heine’s book) (edit - just looked it up, that book was published 18 years ago! Time I got this bike built)
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Last night I was fucking around with this 1940s/50s Luxor light.
I’m going to cram in the innards from a Busch and Müller Seculite Skully gave me, but I had to make a new mount and way to secure the lens.
It was brilliantly frustrating.
Think I’ve nailed it.Edit: I realised this post isn’t clear, I made (fabricated is definitely too posh a word) the little ally bracket from some tube I had.
I flattened it, bent it, drilled and tapped it. It replaced the original Luxor incandescent bulb holder which the red dome bolted to, I re-sized the original bolt to M4 (it was close already and I had an M4 tap and die)
There is now enough room for the gubbins from the busted B&M rear light and the red dome is held in place.
Only took all fucking evening!
Oooh.
I know the answer to this one!
I don’t think Pro Vis 5 would be great for track (if that’s what you’re going to use them for) as the small BCD leads to flex (track is about the only place I’d think this could be an issue.
Also an expensive choice.
Spa Cycles does a big range of TA stuff.
I’d recommend getting a top quality chainset with a fucked pedal thread and getting Highpath Engineering (or someone else possibly l) to shorten them.
https://highpath.co.uk/crank-repairs-and-modifications/