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• #3677
It’s funny you know where that pic is from!
I had thought all of the same stuffAlso 14/23 so almost what I want.
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• #3678
Ha I'm not actively searching for Regina freewheels, just had a look yesterday after your post. There's A LOT of Regina freewheels on Ebay. Many are rubbish, many overpriced. Searching for "regina gran sport corse" turns up the right ones pretty easily, the "G S Corse" ones are later - like the later Campag Gran Sport stuff. You can also find some under-priced gems just searching for Regina freewheels and wading through it - sellers that haven't had the sense to write what's on the freewheel in the Ebay listing.
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• #3679
Well what the heck, this is on Classic Rendezvous as a 1938 ad
http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Italy/Regina/Regina_poster_1938.htm -
• #3680
Which bits were aluminium?
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• #3681
Can only be the cogs surely?
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• #3682
I hadn't seen this before tonight either https://condorino.com/2019/03/30/regina-freewheels/ - must have been after I was doing all my Googling about Regina freewheels! Good to see the second 2 digits must be the year as off his 1959 bike.
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• #3683
A Dud Block
Below is a pic of a block which I've kept as an example of what not to buy.
You will notice that the teeth (except the top sprocket) have a curious shape at the rear top edge - I guess this was supposed to aid gear changing, but those little ears are very thin and very fragile and the arrow points to one (the only one on this block) which is slightly chipped. This small defect is enough to cause the chain to jump on that sprocket, which means, unless a spare is available (I don't think they ever were), the block is useless.
Any block with a worn sprocket (and this may be hard to see) is junk unless you can replace it - the chain will jump over it, and nearly always it's the sprocket you want to use.
Nowadays I much prefer straight cut teeth - like those old Reginas above - they're less prone to quick wear and damage than the modern ones with too clever shapes and ramps. They may not change quite so perfectly, but they're more reliable.
As to different makes, I really don't think it matters what brand you have - no one can see once it's fitted. The important thing surely is to have the right sprockets for whatever riding you're intending to do. That Maeda 'Perfect' for £60 - what a useless advert - there's no mention of the numbers of teeth - I certainly wouldn't cough up that sort of money without knowing what I was buying.
With five or fewer sprockets it's really important to have the right ones!
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• #3684
I think I may be able to help..
What a super collection of sprockets!
I think there's one I can see which is just what I've been looking for - I'll sent you a pm to describe it.
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• #3685
Here's a proper Regina Freewheel!
4 Attachments
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• #3686
Looks in great condition.
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• #3687
Very nice body. Good spread on the sprockets 💪
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• #3688
Straight block.
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• #3689
Now if you had a 5sp one 14/24 I’d be all over it.
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• #3690
Not to be too 🤓 but any hint of a year stamp on the back @Nbenja3?
@absurdbird unless you get lucky I think you’ll need parts from a couple of freewheels to get what you want. You’re obviously also going to need a Regina Gran Sport chain to match!
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• #3691
You’re obviously also going to need a Regina Gran Sport chain to match!
I’ve got a NOS Renold Elite 😇
I might just buy the Regina Extra on eBay.
The one attached to the grotty Milremo hub disintegrated- he has another -13/24 but he says the slots are narrower than his FW tool. -
• #3692
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• #3693
Fiamme pista rims
It’s something to do with the sides isn’t it? I can’t tell - maybe if the two types were side by side.
Pista had angled or shallower sides? -
• #3694
Not completely sure looking on my phone but don’t think those are pista. Early 60s road I reckon. Some geeklordery here https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15541363/
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• #3696
I meant to grab a pic of some when they come up on Ebay. I always remember just how obvious it is when you actually see one of those trapezoid shaped rims.
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• #3697
I said
The one attached to the grotty Milremo hub disintegrated- he has another -13/24 but he says the slots are narrower than his FW tool.
Anyone have any ideas about Regina FW tools?
Seller seems really helpful, I’d rather not buy a FW still attached to a hub although he’ll post whole wheel.Also what are the tips for getting them off when seized?
Penetrating oil, heat, the usual.I’m guessing a correctly fitting tool is pretty important.
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• #3698
A picture of an actual pista rim would be good, Searching for one doesn't really bring up anything that looks right.
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• #3699
The 7th comment on this article mentions a Suntour two notch tool -
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1132831-regina-freewheel-removal.htmlWhich I think could be this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Notch/dp/B08XB38ZDV
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• #3700
I used to read all those posts about Regina freewheels being a pita to remove and thought yeah yeah. But they are. You need it to be in the wheel or it’s a whole lot worse. The wheel gives you a lot of leverage.
I bought a Var 2 prong Regina tool and chewed it up removing one. You use a skewer to hold it in the notches of the freewheel and then a big spanner or a bench vice and turn the wheel to release it. Then undo the skewer and continue.
I’m sure penetrating oil would help - I got my can of Plus Gas yesterday, been having fun with it already!
The last one I did, I can’t remember if the notches were knackered when I got it or if I knackered them ... but you can take off the sprockets, take off the face plate (a pita in itself) and clamp the internals of the body to get purchase. By the time you’ve knackered the notches you’ve already lost!
I thought that one was a decent option. From what you can see in pics engraving, notches and teeth on front cogs look ok. 20 quid is alright, clean up the hubs you might get 20 quid for them. You also might bollox up the freewheel trying to get it off!