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• #10552
Looks like you might have a bob or two to spare...
https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/store/wheel-fanatyk-nipple-shuffler/
You can use a sharpened old spoke to "stab" yer nipps or buy the special tool from Sapim or others.
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• #10553
Hmmm, maybe I’ll get a buddy to 3D print one..
Got an ice tools nipple holder!
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• #10554
That will save you a lot of import duties. Nice to see people taking their nipples seriously!
I've been using the shaker and Sapim's "gripper" for a couple of years and they are now indispensable.
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• #10555
It's only older DT hubs that need the ring nut tool, if you're buying new then they use the star ratchet rings which are really good and easy to service or upgrade to more engagement points. Hope look a bit nicer though.
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• #10556
. wrong thread
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• #10557
.
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• #10558
Im not sure about that - im no expert at all, but taking a look at the cutaway on this page https://www.dtswiss.com/en/innovations/ratchetexp (the new 240 uses the same technology I think) indicates that you still need to remove the ringnut to get at that bearing. I might be missing something though.
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• #10559
I think you're right, I think the last few DTs I've had to service, that bearing has been fine and I've been mostly been messing with some Mavic hubs that use a very similar system and got them confused.
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• #10560
I think the older ones the ratchet was held with just a spring each side, on the new ones one ratchet is screwed in the hub body and you need a tool for that.
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• #10561
Looking for some hubs for a 650b gravel wheelset. I was probably just going to get some bitex but wondering if these from Superstar would be meaningfully more durable, based on the assumption that heavy=strong? Not too bothered about weight here.
Also if anyone has anything nicer lying around then shout! 32h, 12mm front and rear. Ideally silver.
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• #10562
Nothing worse than the bag of nips I’m currently dealing with...
Although, new build station in the shed set up!
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• #10563
Damn, your last post said ‘my OH hates me’ and you had this in the yard! I had the exact same ‘clear this shit up’this afternoon, building some in the living room
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• #10564
Started a build with my first Kinlin last night, an XR26.
Lost 3 nipples down that damn hollow so far, bugger. -
• #10565
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4605923
Got a bunch of these coming off a mates printer soon! -
• #10566
Homemade driver out of an old spoke and a nipple below a bit of thread is a good fix for deep gaps between wall and hole.
Like this:
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• #10567
Just tried to copy this - how do you get the spoke to thread far enough through the nipple to engage the other nipple?
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• #10568
I may have used brute force, I can't remember!
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• #10569
... as in, as long as there's a few threads poking through, you can hold the nipple. To get enough thread I think I may have used a spoke with very little butting past the thread.
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• #10570
Just use a spare spoke without the nipple on!
Or - IceToolz Spoke Wrench for Deep Rims £8
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• #10571
Thanks, but I think I’d run into the same problem with that as with the nail punch I currently use. It would happen if either the spoke or nipple were a little skewed and I’d have to back out and retry. Thankfully it worked better last night. The biggest problem is that I build wheels so rarely that I have to relearn the process and technique every time!
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• #10572
Aha yes, found a shorter nipple and a spoke with more thread and it works nicely.
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• #10573
brute force
This. It has the corollary benefit of locking the tool nipple to the tool spoke
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• #10574
Yeah I know how that feels. Last time I was having trouble with dropping them in the rim, I stopped trying to move the nipple a bit if the threads aren’t engaged, but holding the nipple firm and pulling back/bending the spoke instead, to get the marrying right.
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• #10575
That's what I did using my punch last night, worked better.
I bought the stand second hand and the chap had make it himself!
Want some more photos?