Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

Oh dear.
There’s no hope for you then.

You’ll never find a seat post now for less than a ton.

Oh crap :(

30s BSA - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233912433603

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Seems like a great deal for some one - Mystery fillet brazed 23.5 inch frame for £50 BiN
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mystery-Lightweight-23-5-inch-Handbuilt-Road-Bike-Frame-50s-60s/184682030144

A few points from recent posts

Airlite Q/R
The British Hub Co certainly made their own skewers but obviously they were just catching up with Campag. I'm fairly sure the larger barrelled front hubs were a late development - it would clearly be impossible to get a hollow spindle into the (rather elegant) thin barrel.
As I understand it Airlites date from before WW2, but some of the pre-war hubs had the flanges riveted onto the barrels, which did not work well - I think this only applied to the large flange version.
Tullio Campagnolo patented his cam operated skewer in 1930, but I have no knowledge about what hubs they were used in before the war.

Mudguard Sizes

I've always assumed that there was no distinction between 26" and 27", at least so far as plastic guards are concerned, ali and steel may be different but I've always preferred plastic - less prone to rattle. I've just tried taking a plastic guard and putting it over a 26 and then a 27 inch wheel and tyre: the flexibility of the plastic easily allows for the difference. In practice it is noticeable that with 26's the guards look a bit longer, that is the back end comes slightly nearer the ground. This can be seen on the Saxon tandem (post 3462).

Looking at that Bluemels ad, I wonder if they actually meant that their product would fit different sized wheels, or that they really did make different sizes. As for ebay advertisers - do they really know what size the guards they have were intended for? They often seem pretty ignorant.

Headsets

These are probably the most troublesome part of any lightweight - compared with roadsters the much higher tyre pressure used plus the steeper head angle make them very prone to damage.

And it is damage rather than wear - if the bearing is allowed to go even a little loose damage can happen very quickly. Overtightening is almost as bad. This damage shows itself as pitting in the lower race - never the upper bearing. It leaves you with a choice between 'notchy' steering or front brake judder.

The point here is that when you look at a bike's headset you only really notice the top bearing, but it's the bottom end that does nearly all the work - so when renewing you only need to change the bottom end. Therefore you can keep whatever prestigious top bearing you happen to have and replace the bottom end with whatever fits the frame and forks.

I have some Bluemels Noweights that are intended for me RRA, but don't fit well as the curve of the front guard is wrong-they catch the top of the tyre. I think they were intended for the smaller 26 inch wheels, not my 27"s

what do people think of this. I'm quite tempted...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Vintage-50-s-60-s-Reynolds-531-Frame-Set-VGC/265066268857?hash=item3db72e48b9:g:7DcAAOSwRUpgNqnx

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Good observation on the headsets.
Unfortunately often the top nut gets chewed up and rounded flats from people adjusting with the wrong tools or not enough care.
Poorly designed headsets work loose so you grab a pipe wrench and have at it.
I remember buying my first Bahco adjustable spanner which opened wide enough to fit any headset (😖) now I have a set of headset spanners.

I like that too. Nicely made and unusual seat cluster, some good filing going on, curved sleeved brake bridge, kooky mudguard eyes.

Don’t know why you wouldn’t take a pic of the frame and fork together though.

the chap sent me some photos of it with forks & 700c wheels in if you want to see?

I have some Bluemels Noweights that are intended for me RRA, but don't fit well as the curve of the front guard is wrong-they catch the top of the tyre. I think they were intended for the smaller 26 inch wheels, not my 27"s

Are you sure your RRA frame was intended to take 27's ?

I ask because I know the early RRA's had 26's, although at some point in the 50's they changed to 27's. In the past I have squeezed 27's into a 26" wheel frame and I had exactly the problem you describe. It was only a hack bike, so I solved it by the simple expedient of cutting the front of the mudguard off so that it only protruded about an inch beyond the front brake.

A few years ago I inherited a number of new headsets. Following my policy of only renewing the bottom end I now have a number of surplus top bearings - mostly Stronglight as far as I can remember. If anyone is stuck I may be able to help out.

I'm pretty sure it was. 27" seem to fit at any rate with a reasonable brake drop. I think 26" would be a stretch for the brakes. The mudguards were bought later off ebay, advertised as 27" RRA mudguards, so I think once again it could be a case of them been listed incorrectly and either came off an RRA with 26" wheels or off a similar frame such as a Raleigh Clubman or Lenton, which I believe had the same noweight guards.

Either way, my RRA is currently fitted with some really lovely Green Bluemels Lightweights with spearpoint front that give me far less trouble and look the part, so the noweights stay in the loft...

Stallard with an interesting front Dynamo light in Carnforth:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174656660138
I was tempted to keep quiet about this WP Newton in Ilford but it's too small for me and I've no room:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303902821386

Tidy Andy Bone Paragon in Reading:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294024339107

Interesting seat cluster hiding under the bad powder coat on this one. Same seller has 50s aluminium bidons too:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274701361389

Unknown all chrome number:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313438278829

Interesting especially the chrome one.

Unknown interesting frame https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274704542039

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It looks a bit BSA-ish. Maybe a mid/late 30s Gold Vase or Roadster if it’s a BSA. Pretty sure it’s a factory-built bike, looking at the lugs and general low quality fittings.

I agree, mediocre quality at best. The refinishing is a prime example of why powder coating is a bad idea for bike frames. The different style of mudguard eyes at the back and on the front forks looks suspicious. Probably the most worthwhile thing is the headset!

That all chrome frame (now de-listed) looked a bit better - almost certainly pre-war, I'd say. I wonder if that frame no. on the seat lug was the date (1938). Obviously the equipment is completely inappropriate, so a purchaser wouldn't be buying a bike but a frame plus a kit of parts for some other frame.

@clubman thanks for the info on mudguards.
@jeff80 I could be talked into seeing if those Noweights fit my bike 🙃

26" bluemel Mudguards, slightly more modern I suspect than you need. Smart though
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-bluemels-mudguards-/265070767339?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

The vendor says these are 26" mudguards, but how does he know that? He's clearly no expert.

They may have come from a 26" wheel bike, but that doesn't mean they were not intended for 27" wheels.

Totally agree I only mentioned them as they looked like they might sell at a reasonable price, where as, the older I suppose more desirable mudguards seem to be selling for silly money now.

@falconvitesse I don't really go for those 2-tone ones, my 26" wheelset and guards are a bit of a slow burn, no rush :)

@absurdbird not sure if you've got a cheeky 8 grand to blow but here you go :)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154185327652

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Beaulieu 2014 - IMHO it'd fall apart if you rode it over any cobbles !

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Anyone here buy the Alumite wheel? - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353396321839

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