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• #652
Cute painting
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• #653
Think I've mentioned it to you in the past but cutwrights will lets you design your own flatpack stuff and give them a cut list and you'll get exactly what you want. They can drill for cam and dowels for drawers and will even supply quality Blum hardware (hinges, runners etc) where everything has been pre-drilled. They do great quality ply and birch ply as well.
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• #654
Thanks buddy. Had totally forgot about them. Just knocked out a quote for the chest of drawer parts and it came in at £293 so might need to cost engineer it downwards with cheaper materials.
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• #655
Ah this is what I was looking for last week, £511 postage to Edinburgh for £223 of material!!
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• #656
Yeah postage is nuts. I will just drive over to Hanworth and collect it, save £100
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• #657
Friday lunch beers and 44 stools to make. Suspect a few forum bums will end up on these...
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• #658
650b is back in fashion?
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• #659
- cozey
- cozey
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• #660
More like 13”
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• #661
No need for a list, just go to Rapha Brewer Street in summer and nick one.
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• #662
are you rolling those rings? and if so have you got any tips on making them perfectly round? I made 3 for this light fitting I was making but couldn't get them perfect, they're a bit egg shaped
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• #664
What are you using to roll them? Black flatbar isn’t very consistent but it should work pretty well with a proper ring roller. I got a firm in the midlands to do these though. Didn’t fancy doing 130 rings by hand. They work to +/-2mm with CNC machines.
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• #665
He’s banned. I’m not dealing with warranty claims for cracks.
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• #666
just using a ring roller I bought off eBay for about £100. that might be where I went wrong...
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• #667
We have this one, works well, though I don’t use it much. Can’t see how you’d end up with eggs unless you’re changing the roller tension mid-roll, or the machine is unwinding it’s self or something.
Just roll several times increasing roller tension each time. Use a piece longer than the final circumference and trim down to size.
Alternatively I’ve had good results just pulling thinner rod around circular ply forms (or big dia tube) clamped to the table
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• #668
I have this one
I think where I went wrong was cutting to the circumference of the circle, then bending. obviously the ends were straight. I welded the ends together and ground it down then rolled again, which made it rounder but I over compensated, expecting it to just all round out but it went a bit wonky. it should be ok for what I need, its just not as accurate as I would like.
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• #669
I ordered this sideboard last night after weeks of searching for the right one. I have seen enough mid century teak sideboards to last me a lifetime. I think this one is beautiful though, it's by Frank Guille For Austinsuite and it was made in the 1960's.
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• #670
👌
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• #671
Ah yeah, that’s the problem. Use over sized material, roll more than a full circle then clamp (mole grip probably) at the correct diameter and cut through both ends at the same time with an angle grinder. That way you gets your size and the cut ends fit together perfectly.
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• #672
Very nice. Which section will have the crystal decanters and table lighter?
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• #673
Haha, we'll have to decide once it's in the final position.. Far left is the pull down section though. 😄
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• #674
Get the imperial stouts in there. Bit low for a writing desk.
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• #675
Yup. And the bourbon and rye. Good times.
Lovely stuff Dov.
I had exactly the same dilemma with buying furniture after we left NYC. Spend $500 on some shit from Wayfair or Overstock that I have to put together myself or spend $500 on a credenza that has already lasted for 60 years. Obviously I did the latter. We've been exceedingly happy with our 60s furniture purchases. Just really made to last.
This was restored (basically just sanded and re-oiled) and I think we paid $550 for it. And got matching night stands for $300... Bargain, IMO.
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