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Hovis

80 tooth blades that size are great for crosscutting or small chopsaws as it will minimise tear-out and chipping without the hassle of making a 0 clearance insert or backing the workpiece. If you try ripping with one unless the wood is very dry the blade will clog and generate enough heat to dull it almost instantly. Would be ok for MFC.

@Bobbo

Agree with everything you say, but on a plunge saw it's less applicable as tear out as the splinter guard should prevent it on the keep side of the cut provided its decent and not worn out. I've never tried to into MFC though.

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Bobbo in reply to @Hovis

I've had problems in the past crosscutting with a track saw and new blade on more exotic species of timber the worst being wenge. Not so much in terms of surface chipping, although it has happened, but when the saw breaks through on the side at the end of the cut. A blade with a high tooth count certainly helps so I've got into the habit having one that I put on when doing such cuts.

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Hovis in reply to @Bobbo

Yeah you're right, I hadn't considered that benefit. In that scenario I normally put a piece of scrap butted against the side end of the cut to prevent the chip out. Stops that dust ejection as the blade exits the piece too.

Out of interest what blade/saw are you using?

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