Home DIY

Nitromors

See https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15791355/

I did a similar thing when I built some bookcases for the top of the stairs.
I used https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-s-dar-200-digital-angle-measurer/1192k to measure the angles on each side (don't assume they will be the same) and my trusty Titan (now McAllister) track saw to cut them. The thing about the track is that it gives you a very neat edge by preventing breakout.

A little finessing with hand plane and a detail sander and it fit snugly.

Thank you. I’ll give ‘power strip’ a bash.

Langlow Strip Away Pro is OK, a lot better than Nitromors, Starchem is the best in my experience.

Thanks, and @rj too

Insulation looks like it's the right depth already. Have gone ahead and ordered some of the Loftzone supports this morning. Chipboard, lighting and loft ladder next.
Ta

I few weeks ago I thought someone posted a link to buying high quality ply, I'm coming up short on actually finding it again though. I'd definitely like oak faced ply and it would probably need shipped as I'm in Edinburgh

Cheers, good to know! Already had the angle finder on order too.

Scroll a couple pages back, nitromors is shite now but some posted a link to stuff that is apparently old formula stuff that someone is selling on eBay.

You’ve got mkm in Glasgow that sells all sorts of ply from cheap to expensive that’s who I use most of the time for my ply

Thanks man, yeh been pointed in that direction. I’ll have a look later.

Sure there is an mkm in longstone too? Assuming they have what your after?

If the cuts are most visible from the inside then it will be tricky to do a good cut with any power tool once the carcasse has been assembled and there is more of a chance of a cock up occuring if you make the cuts before assembly (it can be done though).

Jigsaw wise you could use a push blade and cut from the side that needs a neat edge, giving the edge of the cut a light sand with ~ 120 grit sandpaper. You could also try a laminate blade (very fine bi-directional cutting) in my experience you need to control the speed VERY carefully with these.

To be honest in this situation my preference for doing this or any other cutting where it needs to be a good, clean cut for example scribed decor panels would be a really sharp fine toothed handsaw. However your sawing technique needs to be good - keep your wrist, elbow and shoulder in line

Thanks @Bobbo
Quality handsaw sounds the least risk at the best price point. I have some niche CNC kit here that I can use to make some 1:1 templates in cardboard before making the final cuts so hopefully reduces the chance of a cock-up.

Just read the blurb on starchem, did you take precautions beyond the obvious gloves glasses and mask? I’d be using it outside a lockup so hope the usual Edinburgh breeze would be enough to save my lungs?

MSDS here.
Dichloromethane was the paint removing solvent of choice in days before anyone cared about or had a Duty of Care for the users of chemicals.
3M know about this chemical and they recommend an airflow face mask.

The Starchem product also contains 5-10% Methanol, which again requires a Supplied Air face mask.

I'm not trying to scare you, but the Starchem product is clearly 'For Professional Use' only.

No face mask you can buy at Toolstation/Screwfix/etc will ofer you any protections,
except from liquid splashes.

You're a sensible guy, because you've asked for guidance.
Outside you won't be exposed to much, but you will be exposed to vapours,
you will smell it, so you will be exposed.

You can assess the risks.

Thanks for taking the time to explain.
Think you’ve probably made my mind up.

Just glasses and gloves and kept the garage door open.

I've got a wallpapered wall I want to paint over with F&B modern emulsion. What should I use as ab undercoat? Paint shop reckoned anything vinyl based wouldn't work with F+B, so there's F&B wall and ceiling primer & undercoat or Zissner 3 in 1 wallpaper Matt cover up, which is solvent based so would need to be fully dried?

Of course I could strip it but it's on new plasterboard so not sure how much of a pain that would be.

Did a door

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Are you going to be hiding the boiler? We've just had a new one installed and need inspiration.

Well done BTW. That'd take me absolutely ages. I have the simple job of re-felting my large shed this weekend and I'm already anxious about it...

You done a door good! It opens, I take it? You're not still stuck in the bathroom?

I'm pretty sure it shouldn't have taken 6 hours.

I should have got tubular latches with a bigger backset. These are 44mm and the door handle skims the door stops by 6mm. Too close.

unfortunately MKM over here only have 18mm birch ply in a relatively low quality with patches on etc.

Dichloromethane was the paint removing solvent of choice in days before anyone cared about or had a Duty of Care for the users of chemicals.
3M know about this chemical and they recommend an airflow face mask.

Good advice if you're using it commercially and on a regular basis. For occasional use, that would seem overkill.

The Starchem product also contains 5-10% Methanol, which again requires a Supplied Air face mask.

As illustrated by this. Methylated spirits contain at least 5% methanol. I suspect almost everyone on this forum has used meths without wearing a positive pressure respirator. If you're working with the stuff 8 hours a day, 5 days a week, then obviously it's very different.

Still, YMMV. Personal risk assessments can only ever be that - personal.