Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Round down by 0.5mm as spoke stretch by that much. Thats what round down means in maths and in spoke lengths. Rounding down by 1.5mm is not rounding down its just too short.

No blakes spokes in 1mm increments are readily available. Washers are a way of adding 1.4mm to the erd. There are tricks or just use the right spoke lengths.

Never understood why spoke are distributed in 2mm increments. Sapim will cut spokes in 0.5mm increments if you ask nicely enough.

@thecycleclinic are you out of stock of spokes? I'm only getting nipples, washers and spoke freeze on the spokes page of your site?

No longer selling them until more stock arrives. What i have i am keeping for wheel building.

Order time from sapim is getting longer and longer.

I have just placed an order of 35000 sapim force spokes in silver and black - 1 mm increments. I will have a good buffer then. When i receive those i will relist spokes. That won't be till late spring now or summer.

Cx rays and others will happen later. To keep building wheels i need a buffer stock of around 1000 spokes per length and colour Due to the long lead times.

I'm going to send my SP Dynamo Hub back to ISON for a warranty job. It's built on a DCR wheels alloy rim with CX Ray spokes and alloy nipples.

Is there a particular way I should dismantle it, or just unscrew all the nipples and that's that? I really hope I can keep the spokes and have it re-built for me after I get the hub back. Is this realistic?

Just un build by unscrewing nipples.

That’s fair. I seem to have skimmed under the bike parts shortage radar as I tend to be using less mainstream stuff but it had to get me sooner or later!

Spa have what I need so ordered from them.

@cjr for a while now I’ve been starting with going around the wheel once doing about 2 or 3 turns of detensioning then dismantling. Sure I read some where that it’s easier on the hub flanges to ease the tension off rather than just pulling spokes out of an otherwise fully tensioned wheel.

Building a set of wheels with CX Rays. They came supplied with 18mm double square alloy nipples. I don't have the tool for these and they're proving to be a bit of a pig to lace up without it. Any reason why I can't use standard 12/14mm brass nipples instead?

Back off a couple of turns on each to drop the tension, then just unscrew the nipples, you may want to keep left and right leading and trailing spokes separate for rebuilding.

Thanks both for the advice. I will go away and google leading and trailing spokes!

Just use a spoke with the nipple threaded 2-3 laps from the back to insert the nipple. Nothing wrong with just standard brass anyways, but the double square is good if you happen to round a nipple.

Hadn't thought of that. Cheers!

I'm fairly green and some help with sourcing/ideas would be great - thanks in advance!

Lightish, black 26" rim brake rims?
Spa do Kinlin XM 250s in 26" at under 500 gms - anyone used these and got good/bad things to say / recommend something different?

Decent (fairly light, but more important self-serviceable and reliable) 32h non-disc rear hubs?
Need one at 135oln (for 26" above) and another at 130 for 11spd for a strong road build with a Kinlin XR-31RT.

Cheers.

I used Mavic rims and Shimano hubs for the GF bike. Anything with sealed bearings it's not really serviceable, you just replace cartridges, preferably with a bearing press.

self-serviceable and reliable) 32h non-disc rear hubs? Need one at 135oln (for 26" above) and another at 130

Shimano FH-T780 or 610 for 135mm non-disc, whatever level of Shimano road hub fits your budget for 130mm, I'd probably stop at FH-5800 unless there was some good reason to spend more

Thanks, which rims / where did you find them? I didn't realise how the pool of 26" non-disc stuff is diminishing so quickly....

It's bearing presses I was trying to avoid. But they're inevitable for non-cup and cone rear hubs?

Much appreciated, thanks! Will get looking.

I've pressed in an out many stuff with a punch and the old bearings, but you can damage the bearing if you're not careful. Get shimanos, roll better and last forever.
As for the rims I used Mavic xm317 but that doesn't exist anymore... I think 319 is still available? Use something with decent availability if possible, if you need to replace a rim it's way easier for the home mechanic to go like for like

Thanks @Netakure this is helpful, cheers.

I have a really nice 26" rim brake wheelset up for sale shortly.
Built up and never used due to change of plans.

Front hub - SP Dynamo, silver
Rear hub - Royce, silver, 135mm
Rims - Sun Rhyno Lite XL, black
Spokes - Alpina, silver

I'd be interested in those too. Disc hubs or not?

Nice, these sound great but I'm trying to make the tourer less tourer, so looking for lighter 26" rims really and practise a bit of wheelbuilding. GLWS!

thanks both. rim brake hubs.

I have 4 mavic xm819 rims with fore cups.

mavic xm819

Nice rims, but not that useful to somebody with rim brakes 🙂

They are rim brake rims. Mavic tubeless rims with fore cups.