Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

Rad, need any bits for it?

Thanks for offer @7ven
I always need a ton of stuff, but must resist.

And pics of the other treat?

This Dunning has a very nice seat cluster

Hinds, I don't know much about it,
though I do know the original paint work came up a peach, the original wheels were still in tact. The only items replaced were tyres and brake cable.
It was taken to Welling cycles in Welling Kent for a service. It's a father son outfit and has been for a long time. It turns out the dad who used to race back in the day, knew this brand "Hinds"very well.

1 Attachment

Just been for my first ride on a recently completed 1938 Dawes Cyclo Sport


Enthusiasts of Antediluvian cycles may be interested in the Bayliss Wiley cassette hub and Italian version of the Sachs Torpedo rear mech

Loads more photos and details of the build here

really nicely understated that.

Cheers, I try and keep a light touch where possible

Claud Butler bi lam which could be rather nice with new paint https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154282795163

1 Attachment

Ephgrave https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114621797607

1 Attachment

Paris Roubaix Gear

This is about how bikes were used as opposed to the bikes themselves.

The image below is taken from the front cover of Cycling for September 12th 1956. The rider is Dave Keeler(Veg C & AC) and he is on his way to winning the North Road 24 with a distance of 478.70 miles.

Although the reproduction of the photo isn't good (best I could do) it can be seen that Dave is using the final version of the Cambio Corsa gear (change lever visible on the RH seat stay). He said he used mostly 78" into the wind and 94" on the tailwind sections - so not a lot of changing. It's hard to imagine anyone undertaking serious racing with this tricky gear change, but he went on to get the LEJOG record using the same gear the following year.

The main competition came from Alan Blackman (North Rd) who was on 78" fixed and who led in the early stages but abandoned at 350 miles when over 15 minutes down. To put Keeler's ride in perspective, the second place went t0 J.A. Hanning (also Veg.) who finished with 462.24.

So, a great ride, but I think he would have done better with a sensible derailleur.

You may also say that it's clear some people have got too much time on their hands during this lockdown!

1 Attachment

Wow, it's not the distance that surprises me it's the fact that he's using such a cumbersome gearing mechanism in 1956 when surely.there were better options available.

made my day that photo. beautiful stuff, thank you

You may also say that it's clear some people have got too much time on their hands during this lockdown!

Well, some people use that time to make very good posts.

Thanks for your comments fredtc and Oliver - you've cheered me up a bit.

Falconvitesse: Yes,it is puzzling.

I guess the only way the Cambio Corsa (CC) could seem reasonable would be that you thought the normal way to change gear was to stop and turn your wheel round - which is said to be how Tullio Campagnolo came to invent the quick release skewer in the first place. The CC was at least an improvement on that method.

It's worth remembering the theory that there are significant frictional power losses caused by the jockey wheels of a conventional derailleur - hence those twin cable arrangements intended to reduce pressure on the chain when it wasn't needed. I'm inclined to believe this theory does have some merit, and this is one of the reasons that fixed bikes often feel better than geared.

It's also necessary to understand that Dave Keeler was a rather unconventional person - in a good way I hasten to add. I did know him slightly because I was a second claim member of the Veg C & AC in the eighties, an eccentric club, but also in a good way. I think the PR gear fitted in with this.

One moral to draw from this story is that a good rider can often get good results in spite of doubtful equipment.

Does anyone know if reproduction Britannia grips are still out there for sale somewhere?

Try Doug Pinkerton for Britannia grips

Hey guys.

Do any of you know of someone who can produce water-slide decals?
I can produce the artwork and get it into the correct file type (can’t remember what that needs to be but I have a graphic designer mate who’ll help me).
I don’t really want to use vinyl but anyway the computer designed repro decals don’t have the feel of the hand lettered originals and I’d like to get my own made even if they’re on vinyl.

I’m finally going to get my Gillott painted, last mentioned on here 3 years ago! (after a hiatus due to brain surgery and a new baby)

My experience of water slide transfers is that they are fragile.

Have a look at my post here:

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/333588/?offset=50#comment15770031

Nice job.

Fragile during fitting or longer term?

I already have a couple of original decals; a smaller Reynolds 531 db and Bonderised for the frame.
Idk if these are water slide or varnish fix tbh, but I’d have thought the guys at Argos will be able to fix them on ok.

You can print your own waterslide decasls at home - a friend is a crazy airplane modeler and does it all the time.

Loads of Youtube vids on the process. Application requires a degree of caution. Once on, then the clear-coat will keep them safe - UV light blocking requirted too.

I’d seen that. Needs silver though.

Also, I don’t have a printer 😂
Will the clear coat give UV protection.

It’s looking like vinyl might be better.

Btw. I like how the airplane modeller is crazy but what we’re doing is normal.
😉

If you look at my method (in the R.O.Harrison thread) you'll see that I used the vinyl as a stencil and sprayed stove enamel over that. So it's as robust as stove enamel (i.e. moderate).

Holdsworth - Cyclone deluxe, I think?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313391183272

1 Attachment

I figure if anyone knows the answer to this they'll be in this thread.

I want to put the old cotter pin cranks back on my grandads Flying Scot that I've just done some restoration work on.

I have the cranks, Stronglights with the wee 50.4mm bcd, but I don't have any of the original bottom bracket bits and don't really know where to start with looking for one.

I want (as close as possible to) a 42mm chainline as I'm using a track hub at the rear. Anyone know what length of spindle I need for that? Also, I know there are a few sizes of cotter pins, does everything (crank, spindle and pin) have to match or only certain bits?

Cheers, Ande.

1 Attachment