Hacks / Bodges

Ass saver now 35% more effective.

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here's a recent one for me. wanted full fenders but also 2.1 knobbies. fork disagreed. alas the front fender got the saw. there are two keys to hacking fenders. first is maintaining two mounting points each (front mounted to rack) for both sides of hacked fender. second is keeping the rolled edges to maintain rigidity.

Slick!

@j_sivel So it's now 1.35% effective?

Is the mudguard chopped entirely in two or do you have a small amount remaining under the crown?
If entirely in two, you've maintained the curve really well

It's in two pieces.

Needed a long bolt, had to work some magic...and, hey presta!

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^ So good!

Ive started a hall of fame for this thread on the first page - this is the first entry.

Genius. Need picture of the whole bike though.

Nice, you loctited I assume?

Lol, yeah right!

Personally hate the lack of technological progress in chain ring bolts. Still see on new fairly spendy bikes really naff badly sized bolts where you can't get a driver onto the back of them.
Those 5+6mm allen type have existed for at least 20 years and yet are still a rare sight

I’ve never really got that either. Why is the variant that needs a separate, fiddly to use tool, the more common one?

Steep seat tube and old school tandem stoker spacing. Hope the weld holds...

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I hope it holds too!

Yikes!

Maybe add a brace down to the rack mounts? That’s making my butt clench out of fear.

Would a gusset work for that, like you see on some MTB frames?

Or a welded brace like old school bmx.

Shorter versions (gallows style) were common on pre war bikes, I’m sure it’ll be fine - welds look great

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I have a 22.2mm seatpost too, thought I could drill a hole through the 27.2mm at the correct angle, pass the 22.2mm tube through it and weld on front and back, it'd be super strong that way. Bracing to the rack mounts is a good easy solution... it'd look shit though.

Having said all that it seemed to hold up fine yesterday, need to use some carbon paste or something though, it was moving left to right a bit even with the binder bolt done up pretty tight. Guess polished chrome & grease is quite slippy.

Got bored manually grinding coffee... couple of nuts and washers later...

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Ha! I’ve been threatening to do that with my hand grinder for ages - does it work? I assume you use the slower gear on the drill?

Yep I use the driver settings mostly. Works okay but seems to overheat a bit after prolonged usage.

thats a bad example to use as it looks like the seatpost is actually bent in that photo .... but below the brace to be fair !

it looks like that saddle has quite a lot of nose before the rails start (Brompton saddle with a hand grip?)
maybe you could look for a saddle with longer rails?
do you have a full side shot of the bike? is there any scope to move the bars further forward a bit?
I certainly wouldn't want to be sat on the saddle if you hit a pothole...

I had one of those terrible layback posts on a bmx in my youth, eventually it bent back so far that the seat was on the rear tyre.