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My Gillot dates from about 1950, so that seems to fit with your info.
I certainly wouldn't bother to change the front fork ends.
Pitting - It's not difficult to fill rust pitting, but it takes a bit of patience and you need to have the frame back after shot blasting if you're going to do it yourself. I would use a two pack polyester filler (eg Plastic Padding) and flat first with 180 grit then 320. If some one had asked me to have a frame back to fill it in this way, I would have been perfectly happy to give him the frame coated with yellow etch (anti rust) and let him get on with it. I guess enamellers nowadays must be working on something like £50 -£75 an hour, so this sort of filling would be expensive.
Transfers - Waterslide transfers are not very durable. Gold size were the traditional type. There are various other types. If the transfers are going under stoved lacquer it is essential to know that they will take the heat without being ruined. One possibility is to hand paint over the transfers with air drying varnish
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clubman
The frame number on mine is on the bottom bracket and matches the steerer, identifying it as made in 1960. I think it moved from rear dropout to bottom bracket late 50s - sure exact year is on the classiclightweights site somewhere.
I had worried exactly that though, mine has been through a few overhauls already. The rear dropouts are nicely brazed in though I think, and similarly to the front. Although only so many ways to peel an onion.
resists searching for matching front dropouts on Ebay
Edit - I think all the lettering will be lost in this respray, and the front do look like the lower tier Campag offering. Who knows, maybe they are contempory!