Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Rather than Y cable, can’t you just wire one shifter to the other, one cable to the junction box and one cable from whatever free port to the internal junction A cable? No soldering needed.

Didn’t think Di2 was fussy about where things were connected, just that they were connected.

I think this is how I wired mine in my Superzero bars (which are awkward as they have a cable channel under the tops, but the only way you can go internal is through the drilled holes near the bar ends)

Thats how my partners bike is wired:

Shifter

• Cable
  Shifter
  
• Cable
  Bar End
  
• Cable to rest of bike
  

I actually added a 2 port inline junction because the internally routed di2 cable that was long enough for the under stem junction box wasn’t long enough for the bar end junction.

Not quite as sleek, but one less internal cable to faff around with if I replace my bars.

yeah this was my plan, need to figure out what predrilled bars to get though.

I've just set up a new Di2 setup with a bar end junction box. Right hand shifter has the cable from it plugged in one port, with a cable in the other port that runs through the bars to the other shifter, which also has a cable running into the frame and into a internal junction box which also cables out to the rear mech and the battery (I have no front derailleur, although there is a port free for one if I need it).

Bars are Deda Superzero, which has two holes, 5 cms from the end of each side.

this is the setup i have in mind, just with a front derailleur added

Rather than Y cable, can’t you just wire one shifter to the other, one cable to the junction box and one cable from whatever free port to the internal junction A cable? No soldering needed.

Can do, yes. It's a total bugger to run the cables, particularly if you want one cable running all the way from one shifter to a Junction A in the downtube or seattube inside the bars. It's doable though.

Just don't cable the bars and then realise you forgot to put the cable-tie things in so the cables rattle around. Then you have to pull it all apart again and start from scratch.

you went shimano? HUGE!

I’ve been using Shimano di2 for three years.

Put a two way EC200 between the bar and the frame.
It's a lot easier to adjust the bars than having one long cable into the down tube.

hydraulics question:

I've got shimano 105 hydraulic shifters on my bike. I've put new pads in and done a partial bleed (getting air out), then a full bleed (replacing oil in sytem) and finished with a partial bleed again. the lever feels nice and tight when I have the retaining block in but when I take that out, put the pads back in and put the wheel in again it goes back to feeling spongy. why?

edit: had ANOTHER go at it. partial bleed with the wheel / pads still in. feels stiffer now (70%?) but still not perfect. assume there's air somewhere still in the system. not sure how to eliminate that. might try this: https://www.bikeradar.com/features/give-any-hydraulic-brake-the-bleed-of-its-life/

This is what I did.

do a proper bleed from the caliper like the dealer manual says :D

I did that !!!! that's what I mean by "full bleed"

Are you sure it's not the normal travel you get with Shimano?

not sure, it could be. I've tried the bikeradar trick linked above and had another go at just putting the filled reservoir on top and pumping air out - seems stiffer now. I'll try some of my club mates' (shimano) levers this weekend to get a comparator

I find I like to have a shorter travel lever, so take the wheel out and give it a couple of throughs which means the pads end a little closer. This tends to make it a little nicer feel. I've never worked out how to do the proper travel adjustment.

https://www.bikeradar.com/features/give-­any-hydraulic-brake-the-bleed-of-its-lif­e/

did you do this with wheel in or with brake block? had the same issue and put it down to needing new pads but could be this too

I did it with the wheel in (mostly because I was fed up taking the wheel, pad etc out by that point.) not sure if it makes any difference in reality - might just be a placebo effect.

last night when I left it, pumping the lever was not expelling any air by the end. this morning when I had a go at it again, the reservoir was basically fizzing with air when I was pumping the lever. so maybe it does work ? who knows

Had a bit of not-terrible weather the other day so rode outside on a bike I've not ridden for a few weeks. The biggest 3 cogs on the cassette were unreachable in the small ring. Any ideas what might be wrong as the indexing seems fine, it's just like I've got an 8-speed di2 setup

Did someone drop it? Limit screws or being really fucking bent would do that.
Possible gunk in the erectronics but that would randomly fuck all kinds of shifts, not just three specific cogs. Check the limits first I guess and report back.

I'm assuming of course this bike worked previously and you haven't just stuck on a chain that's way too short.

Yeah it worked fine last time I rode it. Nobody has dropped it to my knowledge but it’s entirely possible that it has been at the office as I left it there for a week a while back.

Have you reset it, as it sounds like it’s gone into crash recovery mode.

Well it went into crash recovery mode the other week. Wouldn’t shift at all. I reset it and it seemed to be shifting again but maybe I’ll try that before messing with the limits.

Should say that I didn’t crash but it was filthy weather so it’s possible some debris got wedged briefly.