Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

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  • One would hope so!

  • The Google groups discussion of what allegedly happened when he tried to stand up with a severed patella. OMG.

  • Recommendations for a rim to be used in a set of wheels?
    Hubs will be cool r45
    Im 92kg if that’s an issue.

  • Over the years has anyone or people known anyone ridden the spinergy rev x wheels?

    I had some

    feels fast in a straight line, horrible in corners

  • Any experience with Scribe wheels? Just had the unfortunate experience of finding out my rear rim has cracked, so on the hunt for some new carbon wheels around the £800 (+/- 100) mark.

    Any good?
    https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/356307

  • This is current how my look feels.

  • Might just have been me or something else with my set up but when leaning the bike over in a corner it felt like the bike wanted to stand upright again so you had to have constant input all the way round the corner when really you want it to feel like you just think about where you want to go and the bike goes there

  • https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/3563­07

    Good shout - had spotted that but I need disc brake. Cheers anyway

  • Nope, not just you, I raced a borrowed pair once and never again. They flex horribly under cornering load and may the gods help you if you try to sprint on them.

  • £380 for 40mm carbon clinchers? Christ. Has anyone on here owned any from Ican?

  • Not wheels, but I bought a frame 8 years ago and still ride it

  • what stock/factory wheels are there around c.1300g and lower ? so far I have (i) hunt 36 UD carbon; and, (ii) mavic r-sys slr and that's it.

  • Well, Enve SES2.2 with their crabon hubs claim 1302g, but wheel weight is a just a number that falls out at the other end after you've selected all the important properties.

  • DT Mon chasseral, Roval alpinist

  • If you build kinlin XR 26t with the lightest hubs you can afford and CX ray you won't be very far of the mark.

  • Right, I've chosen some wheels, now deciding between 50mm and 60mm depth. 50mm seems to be the sweet spot between aero and useability, and 60mm seems to have a diminishing return on investment past this point, with the increased difficulty of managing crosswinds. Is there any more to it?

  • No idea but I went over Waterloo bridge earlier with fairly normal wheels and the wind scared the crap out of me so pick your poison

  • You want a shape that’s 3:1 (depth/width) and a rim width at or over 105% of tyre width.

    #broscience

  • Is that external or internal? If that's the case I need 90mm deep rims for the 30mm width....

  • External.

    If that's the case I need 90mm deep rims for the 30mm width....

    A 1:3 shape is an efficient shape. The mounted, inflated tyre contributes to that shape.

  • There’s a world of difference between old deep v rim shapes and the newer U shapes in cross winds. Original Shimano C50 shape vs LB 55mm are like night and day

  • Thanks for the advice all - sounds like maybe 60mm won't be an unreasonable set for daily use - though perhaps 50mm front and 60mm rear is the best bet.

  • I might have something of interest, have dropped you a message

  • I've currently got a wheelset with a 21mm internal width (first pic), and my GP5000's come up at c.28mm wide, and i've got maybe 2/3mm clearance of either side of the tire before it meets the chainstay.

    I'm thinking of getting a 'winter' wheelset, with an internal width of 22mm, is it likely for the tire to balloon any bigger than with the 21mm internal width wheel?

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Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

Posted by Avatar for polybikeuser @polybikeuser

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