Home DIY

And here's the front and back of another location.

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I'd buy a length of stripwood like this

I'd cut 3 pieces to fit around the gap. It looks like you'd be able to slide it under the frame. And you've got plenty clearance on the door.
Because it's pine it will blend in. You can round the outside edges to make it less obvious too.
This is just a very basic illustration, and I know it sits proud which is more obvious than filling the hole, but it'll be a lot easier than getting something in the hole neatly.

You could chisel some of the boards out to fit the strip wood into, but I reckon that'd be a right ballache.

Edit: the red line on the first one is just to show that you could cut it square or mitre it - whatever you think looks better.

Edit:edit: you could also fill the holes if you're worried about the trim getting pushed into the gap.

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https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Rechargeable-Dimmable-Wireless-Wardrobe/dp/B07TXZQFFN

Does anyone recommend filling, or using something else to fill the gaps between floorboards? I wasn't thinking filler but more something of those 'V' shaped strips that fill the gap.

There no great way to fill floors without actually using wood strips before sanding and finishing. I've been down this road before. Definitely don't use filler.

I have come across a rope trick before that seemed reasonable depending on application, especially if planning to resurface the floor. I've never tried this and have no idea what to expect:

"As to filling the gaps, don’t use some sort of wood filler. Not only will it be expensive, but you will find it will crack out in just about a year, due to the seasonal movements of the old floor boards. Instead use sections of rope. A smooth cotton rope stuffed into the gap, loaded with carpenters glue will stick very well. You can get various sizes of rope to fill the various widths of gaps. Oh, but be sure to clean out the gaps really well with a screwdriver (or awl) and a powerful vacuum cleaner. The surface of the rope will take the paint quite well, as long as it is made from cotton or manila. Synthetic rope won’t work."

@nefarious is right.

Edge sanders are the devil, belt sanders are great.

What about those V shape things that you push in with a credit card?

Spot on. Thank you.

My partner came back from work and did yet another ring around of floor sanders. Seems we have found one that can do the work in about 10 days time (we have to do the repairs and the oiling ourselves, but they will sand for £21/m sq)

Sounds like caulking a boat :)

Mate said that he does give them a proper going over with a floor sander after all btw.

Yeah but what if you’re not painting the floor?
I reckon it’s a good solution, but only in certain circumstances.

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If it is any help, I bought these the year before last:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOORBOARD-SLIVERS-SMALL-TO-LARGE-GAP-FILLER-FOR-WOOD-FLOORS-RECLAIMED-PINE/184345948674?hash=item2aebdff202:g:jW8AAOSwrklVC~q9

First and only time I have done it so I have nothing to compare it to, but they certainly did the job. They sanded up quite light, about the same colour as the few bits of epoxy filler we also used in other places, so a bit lighter than the floor.

I lacked the skill to chisel them flat, the chisel kept diving into the floorboards on either side and making a gouge. I managed to do it with a multitool cutter in the end.

Just while I am here, Cupcakes we also sanded the floor after ourselves doing those repairs. We found the same thing - most decorators did not want to do it anymore and the few that did were booked up. If it is any inspiration I found it much more straightforward than many reports on the web suggest. My partner had done it once before so she did the edge sanding, which was definitely harder as others have mentioned above. I did the big drum sander and it was very straightforward, the thing about leaving bigs dents by mistake just did not seem a problem. It generated nowhere near as much dust as suggested. That was from a fairly thorough go at it, sanding off a fair bit of material to level out uneven boards & to shift old residues of the black gunk around the margins. A sheet duct-taped around the door kept the rest of the house dust free.

I used DraughtEx as recommended by @Bobbo (I think) and it's pretty good, and wasn't too hard to install.

I hadn't realised until I tried just how uneven the sizes of the gaps between the floorboards were though - I had to get two different sizes of roll.

That's the stuff I was looking at! Is it visible once it's between the gaps?

Not really, they're right that it does just look like gaps in the floor to be honest.

And here's the front and back of another location.

For the larger gaps, if there's sufficient space below the floor to post a piece of plywood that's a couple of inch longer and wider than the gaps?

Drill a couple of holes in the ply so you can tie on a piece of string or two . Put some grab adhesive on the ply and post it down the hole, then pull up so it sticks in place, forming a backing piece to support a piece of floorboard.

Ha, my mate admitted that he often just does it with a belt sander after all, but conceded that a floor sander would be better, lol.

Smart idea. Unfortunately I think the gaps are typically too big to sort with wood filler and too small to allow a supporting board to be posted through.

A floor sander is better for sanding floors. Well I never :)

Is there such a thing as a multitool cutter that works on a track? Like a guided reciprocal blade? I have a cunning plan for the hearth edge.

Edit: maybe I should be looking for a track guided router?

He’s right about the cracking with wooden strips glued in place. What he doesn’t mention is that the cracks open with the sound of a gunshot, in the dead of night.

Prob wrong thread but I know some electrical types here dwell.

PAT (portable appliance testing) not going to say PAT Testing in case the naan bread police show up.

I've seen lots of PAT sites saying "anyone can do it with right training". Well, go on then. What training and equipment do I need? I have lots of work gear that sporadically needs testing and it's inconvenient getting someone to come and do it. Would be much happier doing it myself. Can anyone self issue certificates or do they need to have some formal qualifications? Would the qualification / training / equipment cost me less than £1k? Any non sparks done one?

Since Portable Appliance Testing isn't specifically a legal requirement I think you need to ask the people that are asking for the testing what they will accept. There are plenty of places that will do a 1 day course, or even online, for £150-200. A tester is a similar cost.

Course on a USB stick for £90 https://www.pat-testing-course.com/shopping-cart.php?product=PASSUSB, exam another £60 from them.

Random tester https://cpc.farnell.com/seaward/primetest-50/pat-tester-handheld/dp/IN04993

Don't forget some stickers https://cpc.farnell.com/seaward/91b038/pass-labels-1000-pack/dp/IN01675

Edit: It's all risk mitigation and passing the buck really. Would your insurance cover you if you got it wrong and something bad happened?

Planning on boarding part of the loft next week. Are there any particular gotchas or bits of advice people would share?

Taken some measurements today & picking up some boards, legs & a ladder at the weekend.

Having just finished our loft. Our main bathroom is looking very worn and in need of attention.
I’d like to give it a full make over remove chimney square roof now we have the above rafters etc doing it properly is out at the moment.
I’m wondering what’s the cheapest easiest best bang for buck approach. New bath tub shower screen and tap/ shower will go a fair way.
I’m thinking wall panels? Are they easy to fit? Any downsides?