Home DIY

Most likely the switch failed or the bell hood has spun round. If you remove the cover of the switch and connect the contacts does it operate? If not then dismantle the whole thing and test it on a bench first because what you have there should last the half life of the universe.

Also, never connect all the same colours together in a lighting circuit, just throwing that in there for later because it's a classic, we've all done it and it never works :)

Been there done that - fitting a new kitchen light in Cycliste's flat in Huddersfield many years ago. Blew every RCD, circuit breaker and fuse in the entire block. At which point I discovered it was time to leave to catch my train back down to London. Bad Brommers.

The horrors of the floorboards continue. This is what it looks like under the messy fillet of silicone at almost every door frame... Only about 10 of these...

Contactor has offered to come by tomorrow and explain why it's not possible to do better than this. I'm not looking forward to the discussion.

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Ok I’ll give it a go, thanks

Wow!

Yup

Maybe unscrew the black bell and have a look at the connections and the little hammer that strikes the bell. It's such a simple mechanism you should be able to identify which part is broken. My money is on the switch, maybe the contacts work hardening need bending back or it's more modern type with a little switch that has already given up the ghost.

That's dreadful. I wouldn't be looking forward to it either but it definitely needs to be had.

Thanks, I hate conflict so much. Luckily my other half is helping.

If it makes you feel any better I have to raise this with ours tomorrow, yep different colour grout on the tiles in the middle of the wall 🤷‍♂️

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Want me to take some pictures of my doorways so you have some images to prove your point with?

Edit: happy to write out an explanation of how to do it as well.

Yes and yes ! That would be fantastic.

Edit: you'd have thought the previous boards would have been evidence and example enough... Looks like he cut the new ones to profile but didn't account for board width across the floor or something. And instead of wasting the board and starting again he's just chosen to roll with it. The big silicone fillets were effectively over a void into the gaps between joists, so each one used an offcut (e.g. of the nasty MDF trim) as a grout stop /tray. It's like it's almost ingenious. But then you think "why silicone, it's not a bath" and then "I'll rake it out and make good with wood filler" and then "oh my partner's patience with this has finally ended and they're on the phone to the contractor" :)

Goodness. Did they put sunglasses on when they were doing the middle bit or something?

I have no idea. I’m guessing it might be the adhesive not the grout? They had to redo around the flush plate and that’s the same.
Problem now is how it’s rectified and that it doesn’t get rushed.

you'd have thought the previous boards would have been evidence and example enough

Absolutely, although they may argue that the frames and skirting were put in after.

Here are some photos from mine.
I was able to get them to fit without a gap by test fitting with scrap boards and using those to make a scribe template, cutting away until the profile fit without any gap, and then transferring said profile onto the board I was going to use. If there wasn’t space to fit a whole piece, I’d scribe one for either side and have them join in the middle of the frame, I then added support between joists, so I could screw the ends down, and then cover the screw hole with a plug cut flush. I’ve marked the boards 1 and 2, and circled the plug.

Mostly it’s just about taking the time to get a decent fit, and being careful taking a small bit off at a time, and seeing how it fits.

There is a tiny gap on the boards by the pipe, but it’s hidden behind the door so I didn’t worry about it.

Nb, each board is two “planks” wide as its junckers flooring. It’s about 130mm wide and made of smaller pieces joined to make full boards, but the process is identical.

Edit: also, I pulled up old boards and installed new/reclaimed ones, pretty much the exact same scenario as you.

Photos 1 and 4 are left side, 2 and 3 right side, of the same doorway.

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Lovely tiles tho.

Does the grout take time to dry? One of my current "hobbies" is a daily check on the plaster and mortar in my kitchen and how it gets lighter as it dries. No idea if that applies to tile grout, but perhaps something to confirm either way before you have The Conversation.

Mostly it’s just about taking the time to get a decent fit

Bingo!

Thanks again for this. All sounds sensible. It's essentially how I did the infill pieces o fitted yesterday (template, cut, check, chisel, check, sand, check, fit).

The results you've got look great. If I'd done that DIY I would certainly forgive myself the small gap by the door. Hell, the gap by my door as posted upthread is big enough to jam my fingers into.

I'm stumped as to how the joiner will remedy this without lifting at least 50% of the boards (based on the locations) or cutting out the tongues of a few boards on key areas so he can lift. While he's at it well chat about how come none of the board and ends are straight, why I'll need to use a skirting of 20mm thickness in some places while 15mm is the typical thickness already used elsewhere, why the mitres aren't cut flush, why the silicone fillets aren't even cleaned up, why silicone at all, why are there creaky boards given that he said he was going to fix them down and shim the joists up, why he's left footprints all over the new boards (I've some sympathy but just buy a few sheets of correx to stand on for goodness' sake), why he wouldn't wear a mask while working in the flat despite covid, and why he badgered me for prompt payment despite not outlining payment terms before starting or on the invoice.

I feel like I know the answer to all the above, i.e. he works quickly and doesn't have the time (maybe doesn't have the skill, I don't know) to do it right. But I didn't set the time limit, in fact I invited him to come back for a whole day so he didn't rush it.

Cannot fathom a non shit resolution that doesn't involve relaying some or all of the floor, which probably means a different joiner, which in turn means fitting out kitchen then removing it again on the new year as almost everyone is mega busy. And the obvious elephant in the room, there may not be any hope of recovering costs from this job. But, if I am to escalate this I must first ask for his proposed remediation. Or, so I understand.

This isn't necessarily addressed to you btw, I'm just talking into the LFGSS void to get my thoughts in order.

Tbh, I think they’ll be most likely to offer some cash back - everything else would be too much of a faff, and they clearly weren’t that keen on faffing about! How keen they’ll be to actually hand back cash, is a separate issue.

My DIY job for this weekend was to level the four paving slabs in front of my front door. 2 bags of sharp sand and nearly 25kg of ready mix cement later, and they're almost level. Turns out they were held in place by a combination of air pressure and optimism...

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I think they're in a corner because I have to write a review and unfortunately for them I can't help bring honest (I try not to be a vindictive dick, but it's a case of "sorry I can't recommend [name] because the finishing was unsatisfactory, here's a photo to demonstrate" and that would likely be a problem).

Even if they refunded me the entirety of the labour cost I'd still be out of pocket about £1k for materials. And I don't see tthem offering that for obvious reasons. I should probably read a book on negotiation first :)

P.S. Pressure washing will follow after I've done the grouting. No grouting previously, just soil and weeds.

I’d try think of the different possibly remedies. Which ones are and aren’t suitable to you and concerns you might have over them. Try not to rush a decision.
I would try put this in some form of writing either email or txt. Even as a post meeting summary.
I’m sure there must be some guidance on citizens advice or trading standards etc if you are really worried none of the remedies will be suitable.

As for my tiles I really like them.
Grout or adhesive will change as it dries but they’ve been in since Tuesday...
Given we were told we could use it after 2 days I’d think it’s dry.

My insulation arrived and it looks like it's been rained on and the top is a bit damp. It will be going in a cold corner of the loft, which is also cold.

Do I need to dry it out first? And if so, how long does it take based on peoples experience?

Cheers.

(normally I'd just leave it, but I've got to plan a few things at the mo)