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I use Shell Retinax grease, as it's full of corrosion inhibitors and EP additives (downside is it's 'orrible black stuff...). I just backed off the cones enough to squirt it in on the connector side with a grease gun - thankfully it doesn't seem to have reacted with the existing yellow Shimano stuff. I had a bit of faff getting the correct adjustment, as I'd not tried it on a dynohub before (and not helped by the fact that I was doing it in the fork rather than in a hub vice), but eventually got my preferred preload of slight play with the QR open that disappears when the QR is half-way closed.
Thrustvector-
I use Shell Retinax grease, as it's full of corrosion inhibitors and EP additives (downside is it's 'orrible black stuff...).
All the best greases are horrible, often black, and a bit smelly too because they're full of corrosion inhibitors, EP and solid lubricants.
OTOH, that yellow/green Shimano grease has some corrosion inhibition due to the calcium sulfonate thickener, which has also has some EP properties.
Retinax, now Gadus, greases have lithium complex thickeners which are compatible with Calcium greases (e.g. the shimano one).
Alexnharvey
Just built up an xt abd and found this, around 1/4 turn too tight on a cone and feels better whilst still having zero play once a qr is holding it in a fork. Didn't open it to inject more grease, maybe should for winter, bike is living outside, usually use shimano green mtb stuff or yamaha outboard grease for really badly sealed hubs