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Just built up an xt abd and found this, around 1/4 turn too tight on a cone and feels better whilst still having zero play once a qr is holding it in a fork. Didn't open it to inject more grease, maybe should for winter, bike is living outside, usually use shimano green mtb stuff or yamaha outboard grease for really badly sealed hubs
BrickMan-
I use Shell Retinax grease, as it's full of corrosion inhibitors and EP additives (downside is it's 'orrible black stuff...). I just backed off the cones enough to squirt it in on the connector side with a grease gun - thankfully it doesn't seem to have reacted with the existing yellow Shimano stuff. I had a bit of faff getting the correct adjustment, as I'd not tried it on a dynohub before (and not helped by the fact that I was doing it in the fork rather than in a hub vice), but eventually got my preferred preload of slight play with the QR open that disappears when the QR is half-way closed.
Thrustvector
FWIW Shimano dyno hubs are cup and cone, and usually come adjusted far too tight and with a marginal amount of grease from the factory (you can't set the preload properly until it's built up into a wheel anyway). One of the CTC forums' resident technical gurus did some experiments at home and IIRC reckoned that the improper adjustment might be costing >1W in drag, thereby making Shimano hubs look worse in comparisons like this.