Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted on
Page
of 478
  • Thanks.
    yep, they seem so good in comunications.

  • Measuring up some Mavic CXP30's which need longer nipples. ERD with normal 12mm nipples is 590. For 16mm nipples do I take away 4mm from the spoke length? Seems obvious but I can't get my head around it for some reason..

    I want to avoid this -

  • Use the same length spokes! Edit: ime ;-)

  • @MCamb Thanks!

    I've borrowed a stand but whats the go to bits of kit people are using for wheelbuilding?
    I read some people oil the spoke threads? any other bits like that I should be looking for?

  • Depends which nipples you're using. Sapim, DT Swiss, or A. N. Or.

  • Very shiny, but I'd be concerned about the flat plates letting the stand flex to the side when you grab the wheel and spin it. YMMV.

  • In that case nipple length won't make any difference to spoke length. All Sapim nipples have the same amount of thread.

  • I’ve had a rear built up by a LBS (never used them before) and I’ve got the wheel back after 2 1/2 months as ‘they couldn’t get hold of the spokes’. I’ve just noticed that one spoke has 3 or 4 threads still exposed

    How do people sleep at night with shit service like this?!

  • From the look I got when I pointed out the offending spoke, and handed them the rest of the spokes they’d not been able to source (I managed to get them in 2 days) I’d say they give zero fuchs... needless to say I won’t bother with them again

  • Nipple corrosion, how bad can it be?

  • Depends. I have had an alloy nipple fail, but I suspect that was in part due to the tyre sealant which had got into the rim. Generally not an issue in my experience. And I've never found any difference between good alloy nipples and brass in that respect.

  • Would cleaning up the white stuff and apply some oil help things? I don't think its a huge issue either unless things start seizing. Then perhaps a nipple/spoke replacement, but does the rim get messed up as well?

  • Nipple corrosion, how bad can it be?

    Do want to see my rollerbike wheels?

  • As long as there’s etchings involved.

  • Spokes ID?


    1 Attachment

    • wavyspokes.jpg
  • I'd hazard a guess at Alpina Wavy.

  • Stupid.

  • Interesting; I’ve always heard horror stories about alloy nips seizing and rounding off.

    Are quality modern ones actually worth using in the long run?

  • It's a fairly small sample size, but I've never had any problems with Sapim Polyax nipples. I have had a fair few issue with both DT Swiss and Sapim brass nipples, especially the black ones. Polyax is my default choice of spoke nipple these days.

  • Thanks!

    I’m currently speccing a light-ish set of 26” wheels and was on the fence about using alloy nipples, will give them a go now.

    Related question: am I silly for considering Sapim D-Light spokes over Race? For disc-brake 26” MTB wheels, 32H front and rear.

  • 26"? Use something period correct obviously.

  • D-Lights are great, as long as you're not looking to shorten them, because you can't. Ryan has them for a price very close to Race so it's an easy choice to make.

    Personally, I wouldn't use aluminium nipples on an off-road wheel that's likely to see a fair amount of water and possibly need to be trued in the future. I've also heard that ammonia from tubeless sealant might cause accelerated corrosion too, obviously it shouldn't be in the rim bed but tapes can leak.

  • Anecdotal evidence from this afternoon's job.


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_20201013_160749.jpg
  • Are they a disaster to built with?

    Don’t judge. I quite like the look.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

Actions