Home DIY

The old boxes were 5" deep because the original single glazed sashes were that way. The replacement double glazed PVC was also 5" deep because they didn't have any sashes, only tilt windows.

The new ones are a full 6" deep and they can't sit any further out of the house so they're in the same exterior position which means they protrude into the room by 1".

1. The options are build up the walls by 1" and run them perfectly flat. Costs a lot. Looks perfect.
   
2. Build up the walls by a little bit and run them with a small filler behind the architrave. Costs quite a lot. Looks ok.
   
3. Put a 1" filler behind the architrave. Costs nothing. Looks shit.
   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8nfkK80oN8

Am I right in thinking the green homes grant thing is less exciting than one might hope?

We don't need insulation (except maybe in part of the attic) and I don't really want solar panels or pellet boiler. I just want functional windows that close fully and where the seal hasn't failed. But we can't get a contribution to those without the primary measure.

Has anyone seen a nice looking modern radiator cover?

Also could you "box in" those cool little ones designed to sit under big glass windows?

Background: OH likes the idea of one of those corner seats you see home renovation shows use to convert corridors or galley kitchens into dinning rooms with through access to the garden. None of which applies to us, but hey-ho. It would require a bit of thought over our current rad configuration.

Nothing is ever straightforward is it.

Windows look good though!

No way would I build up the walls an extra 1".
Option 1: recessed 1" timber strip behind the architrave to make a big shadow gap (not very shadowy). How much depth is there? At least 1/2" recess would look ok.
Option 2: add hardwood strip all around the architrave, mitred corners, paint to match. You don't want the front faces flush as the join will look annoying so either push it back or make it stick slightly further out. It will just look like part of the architrave.

Any recommendations for a window scraper. Just looking and I seem to have a whole host of cheap plastic ones with wobbly blades.

Literally just came to the same conclusion as you for the same reasons. Think we'll just get our windows done and forget about the green homes deal.

The plastic handle that fits a Stanley blade is a pretty normal option. The blade wobble tends to be less of an issue when you have pressure on the blade i.e. when it's in use.

I like the powertec ones. I have a few that don't have the soft handle. Only problem is the blades come in packs of 100 so its not for the occasional user. Having a retractable blade makes it much easier to keep in a pocket.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-TEC-Professional-Scraper-92367L/172385722788?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Ghetto style is a Stanley blade with some tape on the back edge to stop it cutting into your fingers.

I remember someone posting something about wood-filler some time ago but can't find it. I need to repair some sills. Cracked due to neglect but salvageable. What's the best filler for the cracks before painting?

I like these too.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/unger-mini-safety-scraper/359HH?tc=KA3&ds_kid=92700046638549236&ds_rl=1243318&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhb36BRCfARIsAKcXh6FvXxa9JSqfCwnHc4c9S7SKdtlIv-Fhg-cWiNsEnnEIj6iejtKEJTYaAtlFEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The one you posted looks banging.

if i wanted to order a slab of birch ply worktop to cut into desks and shelves, what do i need to get started? what type of saw to make sure i get straight lines.

If you know the sizes, I would get them cut by the supplier

It's first world probs, I know, but yeah - bit of a let down. The actual wording now it's finally released very much seems like it'd be great for large landlords looking to shave their outgoings and less so for people with actual homes they live in. This shouldn't be a surprise I guess.

This 100%.

@rogan
If it's a one-off and you're not planning on doing a lot of it, spending on tools is a waste. You have to learn to use the bloody things and that'll definitely come at the expense of wonky lines. Nice ply isn't the easiest to get a beautiful finish on at home. If you can order it pre-cut then you'll have none of the mess/faff/work for better results for, almost certainly, less than the cost of materials + tools.

@dancing james I have done this exact thing but I used angular ring nails for no other reason than I watched some youtube videos and the guys used the same. The way you overlap the shingles does mean you need a nail with a good grip - so ring nails are preferential.

I'm not sure those staples would have the same grip - maybe they would?

Oiled and weather permitting will be painted tomorrow. Putty didn't turn out too bad after all. Had to replace a rusty hinge as well (not something you need to worry about with sash windows but likely they will have some other unforeseen issues) and the screws snapped in the frame. Luckily a friend with a drill press was able to help me drill new holes. We'll see if the two screws are enough, otherwise it's new window time I think.

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Cheers and @nefarious

Given how many shit ones I've bought from Wilkos and the like I think I may just buy this one and a pack of blades and not lose it.

yeah this is a fair point, i’m tempted to give it all a go myself however..

if all goes to plan, going to have a decent garage and 3 bedrooms that could all eventually do with some built in storage so tempted to try getting into DIY

A track saw (aka plunge saw) make this kind of work easy and accurate.

A circular saw with a guide rail or straight edge, a plunge saw, a table saw or a panel saw.

The last two would only be any use if you have a workshop.

A circular saw will do more jobs but probably won’t cut the ply as well as a plunge saw. But a plunge saw is mainly good at cutting sheet material cleanly and accurately, and less good at other jobs eg cross cutting or ripping timber.

Yep, get a tracksaw. And watch Peter Millard on YouTube for how to use it. e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8sagpnlF1Q

The MacAllister ones from Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msps1200-165mm-electric-plunge-saw-220-240v/274gf are extremely good for the money, and seem to be a rebadged version of the older Titan saw, as featured in Peter's videos. If that's the case then they are compatible with Makita and Festool track, should you want to buy longer lengths of rail.

I've got a few of the metal bodied ones but this one is from my Ebay wish list. It's my end game scraper, one day it will be mine.... :)

Ooooh. That’s exactly what I’m afraid will happen with the bathroom windows, I need to sand them back and completely repaint. Imagine that’s not gonna work with them in situ

There's a ghetto way to fix that. Get a piece of tube similar to the size and strength of golf club tubing. Cut a couple of inches off and cut some teeth into it, you can put the tube in a drill chuck and drill around the screw, eventually you'll loosen enough that you can get the screw out. Then drill for a dowel, insert dowel with glue, allow to dry and you're golden.

I have a piece of tube in my toolbox that does this job because it's unavoidable with old screws.