Any question answered...

If you are drilling stainless, you'll be needing cobalt bits.
They're generally spendy.
Axminster Tools may be your best bet for individual bits - as opposed to sets.
Were it me, I'd go for the 5.5Ø and see if I can pick out the remains - as opposed to cutting into the aluminium.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-cobalt-hss-drill-bit-5-5mm-400166?glCountry=GB&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIutrn65bI6wIVUed3Ch0X9wrkEAQYBCABEgLN2_D_BwE

locking the two nuts together

It's in a tricky location thats why I wondered about "welding" glues. Pretty sure I've got some of that threadlock so will give it a go.

@JurekB - cheers. So any cobalt bit from a reputable brand will do the job.

Axminster stuff is generally pretty good.

If you need accuracy of removal, probably the best bet is spark erosion, at a cost £££.
The difficulty will be drilling in the centre of the broken part.

Automatic centre punch?
Several hits.

Depends how flat or otherwise the break is.

I'd go for the 5.5Ø

5.0 is the tap drill for M6×1.0, if you drill 5.5 you'll be cutting away the bits of aluminium which are holding most of the load.

If you need accuracy of removal, probably the best bet is spark erosion

EDM doesn't get you any better than milling/drilling, your main problem is still accurate positioning. EDM is only necessary when whatever is stuck is too hard to attack with a carbide cutter.

Fair comment.

That's a better call than mine.

Would it be accessible to a MIG welder? If there are exposed threads, which there are given the question about JB Weld, my method of choice would be to weld a nut on the end of the broken bolt and use that to wind it out. If it's corroded in place the heat from the welding will also help break the grip of the corrosion.

Help!

I'm trying to put some larger tyres on a Dolan Precursa with Alpina forks. Apparently people are successfully riding around on 28mm tyres.

I've got 25mm tyres on the wheel at the moment and there's plenty of clearance.

But when I put the brakes callipers on instead of sitting against the forks like:

it sits like this:

forcing the brakes to lean onto the tyre:

I've tried 3 different sets of callipers 2 of which say they clear 28mm. It feels like maybe the brake hole in the fork isn't as flush as it should be.
Has anyone got a cunning solution? can i file the top of the brake hole to level it off? is that a terrible idea?

The direction of the drilling looks fine, it's just been done a bit low. New fork time, I think.

You could try a washer or two on the bolt to push the caliper further forward

I did try this, but because of the angle it pushes it further into wheel. I was wondering if uneven (so one side fatter than the other) washers existed to act as a wedge?

I was wondering if uneven (so one side fatter than the other) washers existed to act as a wedge?

You don't want to be putting eccentric loads on the bolt that's holding your brake to the fork. It's one of those areas where bodging it is not acceptable.

Do they still hit the tyre when the pads are close to the rim, like in actual use?

Yeah, as Snotty says, there should be a little more room when it’s cabled up and the pads are closer to the rim.

Steer clear of the “***” (or something similar) branded screw removers they sell online and at Screwfix. Piece of rubbish drill bit was manufactured off centre by >1mm, so ofc it snapped the first time I used it. Screwfix dude said not to bother writing a complaint because their management don’t care.

Edit-dunno why everyone else’s replies just loaded...

Try to undo the bolt in red as much as you can, see if it makes a difference.

Also, that washer between your fork and the caliper, try removing that, could work with moving the red bolt all out

That said, both your pads seems to be at the bottom of the caliper arms (in blue) which might suggest a new caliper might be the best solution.

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With the Alpina forks Dolan says the max tire size is 23mm, for 28mm you want Dolan's own.

Would it be accessible to a MIG welder?

Probably. But I'd need a MIG welder ;)

TBH that would be my ideal, and what made me think of a welding glue. It's in a tricky spot to drill and gauge the right depth. Plus as it's an engine casing I don't want to get it wrong!

If i'd like to embed a live stream on a website, what free and reliable options are there (if any)?

Are there any wifi connected light bulbs that don't require that you also purchase the producer's associated wifi-hub? (Or compatible with the Google hub I've got already).
Interested in setting up a wake up light function.

But I'd need a MIG welder ;)

Everybody does need a MIG welder. Here's your excuse for getting one.