Kona Lana’i, klunker project, 26 ain’t dead

Recently got hold of this frame (seller’s photo):
19” Kona Lana’i 2003

First order of business is to remove the crank bolt which seems to have an inch and not mm standard head.

Second order of business is to find a suitable fork, preferably rigid. I found the geo chart, and would very much appreciate some input on what rake and A-C I should be looking for.

Plan is a slow and steady build with the usual 1x9 or 1x10 drivetrain and perhaps some MX style bars - will be a very tight budget build though so we’ll see.

Excited about once again owning a Kona!

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I’m an idiot: fork rake is in the geo chart - 38 mm

Might I suggest a new paint job to go with it?

To be honest I think the paint job is what gives it character. A re-paint would make it look like any other cheap aluminium frame.

Progress:
Thanks to @Tijmen I should have a P2 fork on its way in soon - now to try and gather everything else :)

I had a similar vintage explosif that I ran with 80 mm fox suspension and an avid cable disk upfront , which made it super usable . Get some older p2 forks if you want to go rigid , but check the ac as they come in two different lengths , the older ones are nicer steel if I remember but are shorter and v brake only ..

Bottom Bracket Blues
Managed to get the non drive side out - drive side is supposed to loosen clockwise, right? Seems completely stuck to me.

I hope that me sacrificing my thumb between wrench and rubber mallet will lead to a divine intervention and the cartridge will vanish overnight.

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An injured thumbs up is one of the most contradictory images I've seen. Liberal penetrating fluid sprayed into the shell soaking down onto the stubborn cup has worked well in the past. Also holding the BB tool in a vice and turning the frame, but steady as you go. Good luck!

More leverage will probably do it. I inherited a full bike last year but the model was circa 2006 with an unknown age BB in it. It was rideable but when the BB needed replacing it took far more leverage than a normal socket set could apply. However a long lead pipe left over from a kitchen extension slid over the socket set wrench and did the job

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6vaQqnpG7T/

Lana’i bottom bracket cup has stayed put, despite my best efforts.
But, as the old saying goes, when you can’t beat them, purchase your way out of it.

Bought another Kona (2000 Cinder Cone) to see if I can’t get something going right...
From what I can tell, this has two replacements from original spec (which can be seen here: http://www.classickona.com/oldgold/2k/2k_xch_cin.htm)

1. Rear wheel is swapped
   
2. Fork is swapped for a (2004?) Manitou Axel, spring suspension fork
   
   

Test ride through the local woods makes me think the fork is really soft (although my experience with front sus is limited), and the original tires need to be swapped (no kidding).

I have On-One Mike bars and a few shorter stems incoming, and will update with own pics once cockpit is swapped.

Seller’s pic attached.

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Have you tried using a long M8 Bolt to hold the BB tool in place and then use a vice?? Thats worked most the time for me.

I'm with @jambon, spray plenty of pf in the bb shell from the open end, leave overnight, go back to it next day, stay calm, keep your digits out of the way, and have another go.

Thanks everyone for tips on BB removal.
I have watched a few videos as well, and I just lack the right gear to change approach from clamping the tool (using a carpenter’s clamp), and hammering on a wrench with a rubber mallet.
As I’m in no hurry now (as if I ever was) I’m gonna wait for the right steel pipe to come across my path. I have faith that Leverage will return some day.

Anyhow: What tyres should I go for on the Cinder Cone? Thinking Race King rear, Mountain King front? Perhaps a Rocket Ron/Nobby Nic combo?

Cleaned up and photographed.
Turns out the decals are glow-in-the-dark!

Fork steerer is cut too short so I can’t mount a top cap. Once I find a rigid fork I’ll move this over to the Lana’i which has about 3 cm shorter head tube.

Still mulling over tyre choice too.

Photos

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New handlebars, grips and stem. Tested out both 70 and 50 mm stems, went for 50 in the end. Fitted a top cap too.
The cockpit was moved to an even older 26er (Swedish brand Richtech). It’ll make an appearance once I can get my photography right.
I just need new tyres now and then this is done, and I’ll refocus on the Lana’i bb situation.

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Rapid Rob rear, Nobby Nic up front

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New fork from Planet X cut and mounted this evening. Wish I would’ve remembered to order the star nut with the fork instead of having to order that separately - would have sped things up a bit :)

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Silver spacers need to go though

This looks real nice. I forever want an old Kona.

Those Planet X forks look good, I'm eyeing some up for my recent build (also to replace some soft suspension forks). I'd be interested to hear your impressions of them.

I’ve only ridden on the street outside the house, but shedding at least a kilo is very much noticeable. Even when just lifting the bike down from the workstand I could tell a huge difference. Wish I would’ve weighed both of them before mounting.

Lana’i freed from its bottom bracket by LBS.
Donor bike is now taken apart - will keep the 3x8 setup for now (#savethetriple), but will have to use another front derailleur because of going from 34.9 to 31.8 seat tube. Do Shimano MTB 3x front derailleurs have the same pull ratio or will I run into issues?

Measured the 1993 Deore XT bottom bracket axle - 107 mm. Promised myself to spare my thumb and just get a new one for the new build, but can’t find a place with both UN55 and Schwalbe Table Tops in stock, so we’ll see what happens.

Component cleaning will happen tonight - pictures tomorrow.

Cranks!

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Headset cups installed with homemade press. However I have issues with setting the crown race. Should’ve cleared the fork from rust. Should I lube the fork steerer tube?

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Should I lube the fork steerer tube?

No real need, the only moving parts should be the bearings, running against their respective races/cones. A bit of grease to help prevent water ingress etc. never hurts though. If you're using an A-head stem some assembly paste or copperslip would probably be better where that clamps on to the steerer tube.