Dynamo Lights

Sorry meant @.gaz.

The connectors on SP and Shimano look exactly the same to me (I have both). Never tried connecting one to the other though as one’s 26” mtb and the other is 700c road.

Would anyone like one of these with one of these and one of these

All brand new and boxed for £340?

Broke my bike and need cash for a frame repair - plus Covid killed all my plans

My dynamo light has stopped working.

I'm running a standard Shutter Precision hub, on a 20" wheel, and recently hit 70 kph with the light running. Before I buy another, is it possible the light could have blown out? I'd guess there should be some form of over-voltage protection in a modern LED light, and there were no spectacular fireworks but the timing does seem right (it was day at the time so I couldn't say for sure it stopped working right then).

I'd always disconnect and reconnect everything first. Connections randomly fail all the time

Yeah, it's all been rewired and seems fully dead, sadly.

I had assumed overvoltage protection also. Sounds like credit card time

I'm running a standard Shutter Precision hub, on a 20" wheel, and recently hit 70 kph with the light running.

Woah! Chipped electric bike? Massive hill?

I imagine front of a cargo bike?

Can anyone confirm if this is a common problem? 70kph always seems to happen at some point in a bike tour. If there's a chance it'll blow the electric system, then I'd rather not have a dynamo fitted in the first place.

Ah, of course, a 20” wheel means the dyno spins faster in relation to speed.

Never heard of a light being over-loaded since LED.

What was the light? Most LED lights have built-in overvoltage protection, and AIUI dynamos only generate crazy voltages if there is no load connected.

Definitely not common.

If you look at the graphs here, on the right side the voltage is rising very slowly with speed:
https://www.sp-dynamo.com/series8.html

70 kph shouldn't be a problem - I've certainly done close to that many times on dynamo bikes, and I tend to keep the lights on all the time.

SP do do a special version of their dynamos for small wheels. I presume it has slightly less drag because they anticipate it spinning faster.

Can I use Son coaxial junction boxes and adapters with a Supernova light? I'd like to be able to disconnect both light and a charging device from the wheel easily and if compatible they look like they'd be ideal.

Yes. It's just a connector, nothing clever. There's no way the Supernova can tell what connectors you've used.

Cool wasn't sure if there was any difference in the wires in my light compared to the Son coaxial stuff.

Nah, for these purposes wires is wires.

Great, thanks

Any issues running the rear son light on its own?

Am I right that that the son rear light should only be piggy backed off the front light, or run with the voltage protection cabling if running direct off the dyno?

Depends on what voltage protection it has built-in. Some (maybe most) rear lights are fine on their own, some burn out very quickly. SON’s website is rather sparse on information.

SON rear lights have no voltage protection. If you wire them direct to the dynamo hub, they will go pop.

Anyone recommend front and rear lights for a commuter lock up build? Sounds like b&m secula on the rear is well regarded and cheap, but the front light options are doing my head in.

Will hopefully be mounted under my rack somewhere if that matters.

Yeah I think I've proved that. Rear light died on me and couldn't work out why. Now I know.

I rather rate this one as a relatively cheap pair up with the Secula. The brightness seems better than my (much more expensive...) Supernova E3 Pure, which is slightly annoying.