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• #27
Im pretty sure I have to shorten the hydraulic cables. If I disconnect it at the lever and keep it high all the time I might get lucky with just a minor burp apart from bleeding the whole system, or am I’m mistaken in assuming this?
I'm fairly certainly that you need to cut SRAM road cables at the caliper end. You can still get away with it but you can get 3rd part kits quite cheap.
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• #28
Oh tanks for that input! yeah need to check that.
After trying out some friends saddles for that project, and not having really found anything I ordered a Selle Anatomica X2 from the USA yesterday. Since i like my cutted C15 but find it a little bit uncomfortable for longer rides. I hope it will fit my ass.
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• #29
Digging the da crankset. Great choice. Really sets the bike apart.
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• #30
I cut mine down at the caliper and didnt have to bleed them.
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• #31
Possibly inspired by fern bikes?
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• #32
Heavily! :D
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• #33
Love them too. I was really blown away by the details when I saw them at kollektif.
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• #34
So it’s Time for our vacation and the Wheelset didn’t arrive. Everything else is done though!
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• #35
The Wheelset odyssey continues. They arrived while I was on vacation.
Just came home to inspect them. Other then stated it wasn’t 6 hole. It was center lock and he forgot to include the adapters and wants me to pay extra now. Also other then written it’s not 135mm it’s 142mm and won’t fit into my frame. But it looks like I can change that with the hubs.
Then the front won’t fit because the diameter of the hub doesn’t quite fit the fork. Also the adapters are totally loose as you can see in the video.
Looks I was just too naive to buy online and then got hit by my lack of knowledge of the different standards. My axles have 12mm the front wheel has this loose cups with 14mm.
Maybe you’ve guys can put me into the direction if it’s worth to fix all of this, because I can’t give them back.
Apart from that they look super nice and sharp. But broken and already chipped paint from my fork because I didn’t pay close attention.
Video: https://i.imgur.com/TTvBvaO.mp4
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• #36
You can easily order the required end caps for front and rear wheel via the hunt website. They are reasonably priced and sent mine the next day..
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• #37
the endcaps are just pushed on the hub from each side, so they might be a bit loose initially. this doesn't affect their function, as soon as you put the axle in, it should be all nice and secure..
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• #38
and finally.. are you sure your frame has 135mm rear spacing? looks like thru axle to me and with 12x100 front, it's most likely 12x142 rear.. but that just guessing..
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• #39
Well I measured it to be 135mm and the axle 142. I was thinking that I may have installed the frame inserts for the axle wrong but they were right and it still was just too narrow. Which is interesting since the Veloci RollCi axles also come in 142mm...
Thanks for the info with the caps! Was confused since there is written locking on it and someone really bodged the holes.
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• #40
So I found a spec Chart stating it 12x142. Still I measured 135. Is it possible I don't need to install one of the bushings that came with the Frame? But that would'nt really make sense in my view. Cant check it right now but will do later.
Ordered the caps and new Rotors since I will use Center Lock Rotors if I already got the opportunity.
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• #41
End caps will line up when you insert and tighten the front axle.
Modern hub standards are terrible to work with for newbies. It took me forever to understand what I needed to get my first thru axle build to work properly. This is especially true with second had parts.
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• #42
What did I miss here?
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• #43
There are two bolt through hub standards (that are relevant here). 135 x 12 and 142 x 12. They are the same width hub, just with different adaptors, its just if the frame is for 142, the drop outs have a 3.5mm recess either side. If its for 135 then no recess, as if there was the cassette would hit the drop out. The odd thing about your pics is that the drop out has a recess, but measures 135ish. Most odd.
135 x 12 was an early bolt through standard superceded by 142 x 12 which is designed so the frame has the shoulders that makes it easier to locate the rear wheel.
As with the previous headset EC v ZS question, the shitty velocicycle website doesnt actually provide the basic information of which drop out it should be.
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• #44
I asked Veloci on Instagram. They told me the exact same thing. It looks to me like I would need a 135mm rear axle to fit the 142mm frame, because the dropouts have a recess of 3,5mm each. So 135+2*3.5. Which is shit since I got the wheels with 142mm axles. Fuck I should go back to build steel track bikes. -.-
Their own wheels also come with 12x142. I will just wait what they say about the picture. Also wrote to Goldsprint (My favourite shop, where i got the frame) if they had similar experiences.
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• #45
It looks to me like I would need a 135mm rear axle to fit the 142mm frame, because the dropouts have a recess of 3,5mm each. So 135+2*3.5.
If its a 142 frame then you need 142 adaptors and the frame will have the 3.5mm recess
If its a 135mm frame then there will be no recess in the frame drop out because if there was, the drop out would rub on the smallest cog on the cassette.Only thing I can think with that is either a. You have drop outs designed to run 142 in a 148 boost frame by mistake or b. your frame has had the drop outs squeezed together. Which ever, its one for veloci to solve so I would ask them and point them to this thread?
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• #46
This turns out to be more complicated than fixing my Sea Kings.
Im waiting for Veloci to answer. Edit: Veloci answered and told me to contact the shop I bought it from since they say it's too complicated to explain to me what I don't get. Thats customer support.
But enough bad news for one day. My new saddle just arrived.
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• #47
So I contacted Goldsprint. They will answer me tomorrow and most probalby there's something wrong with the frame and i will get a replacement one. Which is a shame since everything else is already built up...
Thats why you wait and mock up everything first, guys! :/
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• #48
Veloci sound useless, sounds like you should get some kind of financial compensation if you ended up damaging your wheels?
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• #49
The problem will be, that there's probably no other frame in my size available in europe and i already built up everything including shortening the fork and everything. So I might just flushed 750€ down the sewer and bought all the anodized parts fitting to this frame.
Im seriously pissed now and hope something good will happen tomorrow.
Maybe it will be possible to bend the Stays? Some framebuilder here who could help consulting? @Hulsroy maybe?
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• #50
Hi,
read the text on this page. Not quite sure what you need to know. But happy to helpTo me it seems like the dropouts should be further apart. I have never heard of 12x135 until now and 12x142 seems to be the standard...
Thank you! Will build a Wheelset for sure sometime in the future and I have to repair another set. So that comes in pretty handy!
Im pretty sure I have to shorten the hydraulic cables. If I disconnect it at the lever and keep it high all the time I might get lucky with just a minor burp apart from bleeding the whole system, or am I’m mistaken in assuming this?