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  • The socket has two sets of wires, which makes it a ring right? Is there an > easy way to find out which wires are "in" and which "out"?

    They could just as easily be a daisy chained radial with the other wires going off to the next socket.

    The way to test is to disconnect one and see if the socket still works*, and then the other. If it works equally with either then you've got a ring. If it only works on one you've got a radial (or maybe a broken ring). Also check whether any other sockets in the vicinity are dead.

    Though it doesn't actually make any difference which it is, because AFAIK it's legal to add a socket on a spur to either a radial or a ring circuit and the wiring would be the same for both.

    (* I'll leave up to you how to do this without killing yourself)

  • Missed that before my last reply. Thanks.

    I'm wondering about a spur, but I gave up as I was struggling to find a matching fused switch thingy that I've forgotten the name of for the moment.

  • An easy way to work out what you're dealing with is switch the main cu switch off and remove the cover. Then you can see if you have 2 sets of wire at the breaker. If it's a ring it's not directional, current can flow from both sides of the ring. That's why it can handle much higher ampage. So you can take the 3 connections from one of the wires out of the back of the existing socket and connect it with wagos to one of your new wires, then take the other new wire and connect it where the old ones were in the old socket. Ring complete.

    You should then carry out a ring test and ir test and check the zs is correct for the breaker before you fill out a minor works certificate. I've never seen a minor works certificate in the wild though.

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