• I don't know anything about an Arkose but I've flogged Kinesis for a few years now so if you have specific questions about them ask away. Have you checked their geos to make sure both frames will fit in whatever size you need?

    Found another pic. Ruislip Lido.

  • I don't know anything about an Arkose but I've flogged Kinesis for a few years now so if you have specific questions about them ask away. Have you checked their geos to make sure both frames will fit in whatever size you need?

    So, the sizing has been a bit of a struggle because I want to match position to my road bike and it's obviously much racier. I think by dropping a frame size down to a 54 and slamming a 17 degree, 120mm stem I can get quite close. Did you need to do anything drastic to fit yours?

    Only a couple of questions so far - I've read that the finishing on the frames can be a bit rough. Did you have a shop race and face everything before you built it up?

    I've also read that the internal cables can rattle about a bit. Has this been an issue?

    Lastly, is there anything you dislike/would change about the frame?

    Thanks, TTM

  • If you’re gonna try and match the fit to your race bike, you may end up not liking it.

  • To get mine set up to my ultra position it's basically a half way house between my TT position and my road race position because I'm using drops with clip-ons. So yeah, it took initially a 130mm stem to get that right and now it's got a 120mm fitted because the front is quite high and the effective tt is short. I wouldn't size down though if I could avoid it - bigger frame triangle = more space for bags.

    Anyway, why would you run 120mm stem but "size down" to 54? Ride the 55.5 or 57 and you could use a much nicer length 100mm stem.

    @scherrit is pretty, what's the word, fastidious with builds so he probably would've done it anyway. As mine was a warranty job I never saw the frame until it was built but he might remember what state it was in.

    Again, cables rattling internally is due to the shop not installing them properly, not the frame. I've had this in aerobars before but that's easily fixed. Bear in mind the RD Di2 cable isn't internal because of the yoke they use at the BB. So mine is just tape along the underside of the chainstay.

    The lack of total internal cables, ie. the RD due to the yoke. It could do with a sexier fork. But to be honest I got mine as a replacement for the 4SD and it wasn't my first choice but its kinda grown on me. The first one was hit from behind by a car and didn't break (it was written off due to risk of future cracking) so they're pretty tough (the back wheel didn't survive). I'm in the process of flogging it on gravel stuff now and it's quite fun but the same could be said for most bikes. I do like the fact I can fit 47mm 650b tyres on it or swap to my 700Cs for road. I don't think you can get my sexeh high viz any more unless you find a used one. Oh, yeah, one thing I liked on the 4SD was the top tube had cable routing so my dyno cable rear light was internal but the Tripster doesn't have this so the cable is taped along the top tube. No biggie for me but people more precious about looks might have a sook.

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