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60t seems very high. Our 45t gets through everything and cuts clean on most stuff. Bit of masking tape on the back side if you want to be really clean, but any little breakout on the back is usually hidden or small enough to be hidden when rounding the edge off a bit later in the job.
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Hmm, I just replaced it with same spec as the original Makita blade it came with. I notice your kerf is 2.15mm vs my 3mm, any issues with deflection?
I mean, if this is in the week when it went blunt, we may have our answer. That being said, ally won't kill a blade completely, a single small cut on ally shouldn't make a drastic difference.
@nefarious Hard to say, I feel like it was going dull before I did that cut, but it was only the one and not a big cut by any means so I'd have thought it shouldn't have hurt it.
Since @dbr is talking about saw blades, I have my own question. I'm not happy with performance of my freud 260mm 60T in my mitre saw. It's slow to cut and requires more force to to get through even soft woods than I'd like. It was good for like a week but seems to have blunted quickly which has got me thinking it might be the wrong type of blade. It has a positive rake, am I right in thinking that a negative rake blade would work better / cut faster / last longer in a mitre saw?
For reference the freud is this https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Freud-Lcl6M01051-8025331492227-260-X-2.6-X-30-X-60T-Portable-Saw-Blade
Thinking of replacing it with https://www.keybladesandfixings.com/collections/all-260mm/products/260mm-x-30mm-x-3-0mm-80-tooth-neg-rake-saw-blade-ks120-ks88
Disclaimer, I did cut a 3mm thick aluminium extrusion with it once so its possible I'm just a tool abuser