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• #17102
Thanks for explaining that - super helpful. For my needs a large frame with 27.5 wheels sounds the ticket but will keep researching and double guessing myself obviously.
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• #17103
I did think about sizing down on my new bike. I’m 181cm and was looking at a medium transition patrol. I ended up getting a large because the steep seat tube angle meant on the medium i was very close to the bars with the dropper post up despite it feeling great with the dropper down.
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• #17104
I’m your size, have ridden a large Cotic (from 2011!) forever.
If it’s your first mtb don’t worry about wheel size. It honestly doesn’t make that much difference.
As I posted somewhere before- buy 2nd hand frame, wheels, finishing kit. And New/new in box fork, brakes, transmission. -
• #17105
I definitely don't look at your thread hourly to try and work out if the frame is a med/large, thanks for confirming this and the buying advice.
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• #17106
Threaded boost rear axle for a Crush, any chance someone has something to sell or lend
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• #17107
I think you have to really, really great on an MTB to notice the difference in agility 27.5 vs 29 all things equal.
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• #17108
Agree totally - plus geometry, design purpose and age (MTB geometry has evolved a lot in the last few years) will have a much bigger impact than wheel size alone.
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• #17109
and age
Yup
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• #17110
Buy this!
It’ll stop me from doing so.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264777618034 -
• #17111
I like a project and do have some Halo 650b wheels knocking about. Considering the £40 postage, what would you have to pay for this for it be considered a bargain?
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• #17112
If I was to be going for it, It looks to be in pretty good condition so I’d be very happy to get it for £300 and most content with £350.
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• #17113
Is your rear wheel boost 148mm?
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• #17114
Nope, thanks for this important detail. Yeah buying complete would be easier...
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• #17115
don't buy this, no bottle cage mounts for starters
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• #17117
Question for this hive mind. Son's new ebay 24" wheel bike has a slightly taco-ed rear wheel and a squeaky front hub.
Initial search gives me either stupidly cheap or stupidly expensive options. CRC/Wiggle are still shit. Any non-obvious places I should be looking?
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• #17118
Would something here work?
https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/components/wheels-tyres/wheels?wheel_size=24-inchA bit spendy maybe
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• #17119
Yeah. Seen the Halos in a few places. That's per wheel, not for the set.
Usual German sites no good. Triton/Tredz have the same Halos. Ebay not much better.
Or 500€ for Spank high end blingity bling.
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• #17120
The new Honzo looks amazing!
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• #17121
I’ll have a think and an ask
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• #17122
Ta. Needs to be rim brakes.
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• #17123
Regular freehub body too and Q/R front and rear
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• #17124
7/8/9 speed screw on cassette appears to be the standard for kids bike
But a new cassette is always an option
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• #17125
Christ, 24” wheels... not much spread in the mid budget category!
I’ve only really thought of building a pair up using bmx 24” cruiser rims.
This in itself proves problematic as the majority of them are 36h.Did find this but it was the only 32h one I could find.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233472016194
You’d also need a relative to buy it and send it to you.Another suggestion from a friend is to email Isla bikes and see if you could buy a pair of them.
A slacker seat tube angle will increase the distance from the bars to the saddle, so effectively making it longer. This is one of the problems with the reach measurement, that and it doesn't take stem length into consideration. If you're going to be riding fairly flat ground go medium, if you're going up and down go large and slam the saddle forward.
29 will allow you to plough over the ground more comfortably than 27.5, and is less agile.