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• #22377
Any tips? Straight edge to check across the joists, work slowly etc.
It will be easier in a tight space to either mark it with a chalk / ink line, or just put a string line across either side and plane to that.
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• #22378
Legend. That makes loads of sense. Currently fannying around with my laser level trying to make sense of it. String sounds much better.
I owe you a beer or two after this!
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• #22379
This is a fucker of a job
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• #22381
Thanks but I've got to finish today and all I have is an SDS drill and 75mm tile lifter attachment.
Just gonna have to flippin deal with it.
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• #22382
Fair play. If you have a sledge giving them a love whack may loosen things up a bit first and help get rid of some frustration.
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• #22383
How do I get the grout off the concrete base after the tiles are up? Is there any sensible way to do this?
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• #22384
Keep going at it with a broad bolster / chisel attachment, the sharper the better. You'll never get it perfect though.
Alternatively say fuck it, pour self levelling compound once all the tiles are up and accept that the floor will be ~ 5mm higher than you originally anticipated.
The best thing really is to take the highest spots off then to go for self levelling compound.
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• #22385
This, with spare blades. With Toolstation click and collect you should be able to pick it up within 10 mins depending on how far your local one is.
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• #22386
^ I've got one you can borrow if you can collect from SE6 (it's a Harris and not Toolstation but looks the same). Just started raining though.
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• #22387
Thanks Tibbs.
I'll give it a go in the week. Need to get the big boys off the floor today and in the skip before it's collected in the morning. -
• #22388
a sledge giving them a love whack may loosen things up a bit first
When I did a floor that looks scarily exactly the same as your photo I found that helped. I just used a chisel and lump hammer for the rest and found for a lot of them you could get them with two hits if you hit them right (obvs some took forever to lift).
In the end it was pointless as the whole concrete floor was pulled and redone.
Also I know I said it in the homeowners thread, but that's the sort of job you'd smash through with a labourer helping you.
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• #22389
Slightly dull and more for my records...but never posted photos of the panel repair. Not 100% complete, but weather tight.
Finished it off during the Friday afternoon downpour. As with everything on this the location made it a lot harder than the YouTube tutorials make it look. Most definitely a lesson if I put a shed up in future.
The whole back will get a full coat of the spare black Ronseal mixed with a bit of primer to cover the ever dominant red ceder. But the bottom has multiple layers of products to hopefully keep it good for the next 5yrs.
So far the gutter has kept it dry, but I think I'm going to paint the blue roof joist with roof paint and silicone it in place as a physical barrier. As much as I like the flashing idea someone suggested, from looking at it in the rain on Friday I'm not sure it's needed. I'd like to put a gutter on the front, so I'm still going to hold fire on siliconing everything together as I think a running outlet might be better on the back with the end outlet used on the door side after a 90° left angle.
@Bobbo I tried to leaver off the bottom rotton baton, but in some places it was still too solid and looked like it might damage the floorboards (outer wall frame sits on top of the floors boards). At the end of the day it's a shed, and you've got to pick a point to balance cost, effort, outcome and need.
Still to do:
- remove obstructive screw and fit last beam
- straighten the shed - working at night meant I didn't notice that I'd put it down at a slight angle
- paint roof joist batton/obstacle and fix in place
- buy 112° bend
- fix horizontal drains
- replace damaged panel on door side
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- remove obstructive screw and fit last beam
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• #22390
Tiles off. Now for the grout.
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• #22391
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15376748/
Not sure if you saw this
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• #22392
Thanks for the offer but I've got wallpaper and other stuff to get off so I'll just buy one and get some blades at the same time too.
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• #22393
Though the grout had to be up today as well so didn't mention it but a concrete scabbler (concrete plane) will make light work of it and leave you with a level surface.
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• #22394
Good shout. I'll try the sharp blade scraper first and then move on to the big tools if that doesn't work.
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• #22395
So bloody close, but not quite there today. Managed to get the massive hump out of the back corner at least, although I’m annoyed I didn’t level more of the joists earlier on.
Always the way though.
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• #22396
Stored in the memory bank
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• #22397
Any clues of where we can get Pressure Treated Overlap Fence Panels - 6 x 6ft plus matching concrete posts and gravel boards with delivery to SE that don't cost a kidney? Tried Selco, Wickes... none seem to deliver currently...
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• #22398
Got any local timber yards? they will quite often make their own, and be of better quality than what you get from the DIY places.
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• #22399
I think the nearest one do, but don't deliver... will call others around the area. Good to know about the quality. Last trellis I bought in Wickes was so shit (ended up sanding, coating...) it still pains me I did not do it myself from scratch...
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• #22400
Man and van for delivery? Main difference I find (i'm in the south west so may be different up there) is that our local timber yard makes panels from treated timber, where as diy places make the panels then dip treat them, which is no where as good IMO.
Thought the finish might be in sight today for laying the floor down. Turns out there’s a massive bulge in the last bit of floor so off to go and borrow a planer off my sister in law.
Any tips? Straight edge to check across the joists, work slowly etc.
These things are never easy eh!