Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Can I use a EW-WU111 E-Tube wireless unit as a inline connector, so that I don't have to source a longer cable when switching to a bar end junction box?
I take it I will need a BT-DN110 battery to make it work at all?

Actually just discovered the EW-JC200, inline junction, cheaper than getting a new 1200mm/1400mm cable.

Yes you can. Also yes for the battery.

Anyone know if/where you can buy a spare bar end plug for the EW-RS910?

By which you mean this?

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-parts-road-bike/shimano-di2-parts/shimano-handlebar-holder-for-e-tube-port-rs910-black-605736/

That will be it, thanks!

Completely new to Di2 but thinking about buying some 2nd hand bits over time for (likely r8070) my bike

My frame has full internal routing so I'm keen to have all the cables, boxes, batteries etc neatly installed and hidden where possible.

Are there any good guides for this process? As in, where should wires run, where do bits sit , which bits should I buy, etc?

Edit - just read some of the posts on the last page which were helpful!

Bar end junction box, battery in seat post... What else?

Can I use a bar end junction box in my richey evomax bars?

hi all... I was wondering if anyone might know how to fix an issue i have with my Ultegra 6870 group (6770 shifters, external battery and junction B)

I've internally routed the mech cables through the frame and out of the seatpost and in doing so have had to cut and splice the cables (I've had a go and got the rear mech working however this was only a test as the cable section I added was very long)

I have never plugged this kit into a computer and I wouldn't know how to - I understand that it could be a firmware issue?

I've hung the parts on the bike and tested the system with legit cables (non-cut and soldered) and it all seems to work.

When I plug it all in with the newly reconnected cables (my electrician neighbour has redone each connection so I know it's not my poor soldering that is the issue now), I've charged the battery, checked all the connections are correctly seated but sadly nothing happens when I push the shifters - also noticed that the battery indicator light on the junction A does not do anything...

Anyone got any tips?

Where do I plug the bike into a computer with a SHIMANO ULTEGRA DI2 SM-EW67A-E CABLE junction, Ultegra Di2 6770 SM-JC40 External Routing Junction Box and external battery?

@Five-Hats

You need to download the e-tube project software from here;

https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/application/

With a PC, and I think you'll have to use a PC as I believe the 6xxx series only works via that, you plug the charger into the PC via a USB port and the charging cable into the junction box as normal. The PC software will detect the components in the system and check to see if new firmware is needed. If it is, it will download and install it.

Do you get any lights on the junction box when you press the shift buttons? Usually you'd get something, even if it's a red warning light.

If it worked before you cut it, I can’t really see it being a firmware issue.

I think the minimum kit to make anything happen is junction A and a battery, so unplug everything and connect just those (any connection on Junction A) and see if you can get any life of it, and troubleshoot from there.

I’m not using the junctions that the charger plugs into - this is the older A and B type with external battery that you unplug to charge... any idea how I can connect this stuff to a computer? (I have the type of charger you’re referring to for my other di2 bike but it won’t connect to this system)

Yeah, I want sure if I’d somehow triggered a crash mode or some such and wouldn’t know how to resolve that anyway... cheers for the tips - will try that 👍🏻

Crash mode is a mechanical disconnect in the rear mech - not software.

The older Di2 stuff can only be connected to a computer via a Shimano PC1 interface that plugs directly into the e-Tubes.

Here’s the kit I’m trying to run -

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If it worked with legit cables, but not with the cut 'n' spliced cables, that suggests it's one of the spliced cables. Try replacing each one with a legit one until the system starts up again, then you know which cable is dodgy

👍🏻👍🏻 Awaiting a mate to drop his spare cables round this evening

Exactly what @TooTallTim says: if it's working with unspliced cables, but not all the ones you've modified, substitute a known-good cable for each of yours until you find the dodgy one.

From my experience chopping them up I would say it's easy to accidentally cut the di2 wires when you strip back the outer insulation; the inner cores come very near the surface in two places. So even properly soldered wires might have a break in them just there.

Where do I plug the bike into a computer with a SHIMANO ULTEGRA DI2 SM-EW67A-E CABLE junction, Ultegra Di2 6770 SM-JC40 External Routing Junction Box and external battery?

Whichever one of those has got the charging port on it, using the charger inline from a USB plug on your computer. I've just installed the Shimano software "E-tube_Proj_V_3_4_5.zip" from https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/ , plugged my bike into the computer through the charger and the bar-end junction box, and it's detected all the right parts (it's offering me a firmware update for the front mech which naturally I am reluctant to do, it works fine as it is).

Whichever one of those has got the charging port on it

None of them, with an EW67A Junction A box.

Well, that complicates it. I don't know then :)

Cheers for input all! My mate has dropped off a diagnostic thing that plugs into one of the spare shifter ports and a laptop so will sort that now but he had a look and spotted that the battery isn’t seating correctly in the cradle (I didn’t know any different as I’d not used the external battery version before) here are some pictures... does anyone have a spare di2 external battery cradle for sellz?

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The battery doesn’t sit flush in the cradle... might cut the housing off it and see if this improves the situation 🤞

It’s even more exaggerated now that I’ve removed the rear mount attachment

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Push that tab down. Does the battery sit flush then?

Nope... it’s fighting something... might be the rubber grommets around the pins... I don’t know if there has been some swelling in the battery or it’s the cradle but I can cut the cradle down so will try that - I’m not going to assume that this is my only problem... long night ahead!

That mount looks pretty fucked. Clean the cradle up and if you have any dielectric grease, apply it around the contacts and see if the battery slides in.

Do you have another battery or know anyone close by that can lend you a battery to see if the whole system powers up? You'll know what's at fault then.