Home DIY

4", I reckon

If you're looking at anything needing a 6" grinder, you may as well buy a proper big grinder.

Mac Allister is re-badged Titan, isn't it?

Cheers.

The more I think about it, my main priority is something comfortable and easy to use. For that reason I'm not that keen on battery.

Going park this procrastination rabbit hole and think on it a little more a little later.

Some advice please
Need to rebuild my side gates. So was thinking to do double gates now, what size timber would be ideal. I was thinking 3x2 or 4x2?
2m tall and just under 2m wide - once I know I can work out how many lengths I need

For a single gate, I've (twice) used 2x2 uprights bolted to either wall, and the gate made from 20ish mm treated tongue & groove, framed, ledged & braced with treated 1x4.
Fixings were all pretty standard timber screws.

4" is plenty big enough for me to find unwieldy, although I am a weakling.

I'm also after advice. Bricklaying. Anything to be terrified of in this job? It's the hole left by an old boiler flue that the asbestos lads took off yesterday. I was just thinking to knock out the shitty half bricks and loose top/bottom ones, butter up some new ones, and repoint as best I can.

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Here you go

https://youtu.be/Acv9DNXGYhU

Thank you. Once I sketch it out I can work it out that way

Floor progress, complete with wonky loo (only temporary). Such slow progress, so fucking sweaty.

Slight panic as I reconnected the bog, the plastic connector/seal on the cistern decided to start leaking. Tightened up, but now slightly worried about a very slow drip.
Any tips?

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Any tips?

Nope, but did you say that's a reclaimed squash court floor? It looks amazing!

Cheers! Sourced it off a farmer in Rochdale who advertises on eBay. £18 a sq yard - seemed cheap to me.

There’s some small gaps and other little bits that aren’t perfect, but generally pretty happy with the result so far.
Will need a fair whack of sanding to get it level in places, as I didn’t grade the boards. I should have taken a bit more care with levelling the joists too.

Any tips for filling gaps once it’s laid?

Sourced it off a farmer in Rochdale who advertises on eBay

Not Lomax was it?

Nah, bobbyboard1 on eBay - lovely guy!

Sand it level and keep the sawdust. Mix the sawdust with PVA until it's a paste then mass fill the floor. Like so:

https://youtu.be/S-MsW89nyfM

He uses a solvent based product, and must high as a fucking kite by the time he's finished, but PVA will do.

Is hanging c. 100kg (loaded) of shelving from what I think is a concrete block wall via 2 or 3 shield anchors and a French cleat a terrible idea? This is for a custom shelving unit which was going to be freestanding but I'd quite like to prototype a wall mounted version.

How hard is it to lay an LVT floor? around 8sq/m in the kitchen. Floor is levelish but not perfect...could have it screed if necessary.

Edit- question 2 retracted.

Most companies that make it sell the stuff will only allow it to be laid be skilled labour that they have trained (the Karndean installers course is ~ 5 days). This is because it is critical that there are no ridges in the subfloor that will cause stress points and subsequent failures over time, think a credit card that sit in the same place in a wallet with the same stress applied every time you sit on it. To prevent this there is at least 2 screeds laid before fitting.

There are LVT products that are designed to be laid by diyers and other trades but the warranty is much shorter and AFAIK the material cost is higher so long term you don't save that much.

This sounds like all the motivation I needed NOT to do it. Thanks @Bobbo :)

although i didn't do it myself - recently had QuickStep LVT put down in the kitchen - floor was leveled, but also used a layer of 2 or 3mm cork roll on top, which should help with any slight inconsistencies (exactly how much, i'm not sure, though!)

Good to know. Happy with it?

So far, yep! We've not properly moved in yet (just finishing off re-doing the whole flat - sofa due next week sometime), so time will tell...

uPVC door question. When our kitchen door gets hot it gets stuck near the latch. As far as I can tell it's an expansion issue, rather than anything slipping/the door hinges dropping, and it's only a case of millimetres. Is there anything a diy-er could do to fix this?

Second picture shows the plate that is catching, it still seems flush to the frame so I don't think its moved.

Edit: now that I've posted the pictures, is it as simple as just loosening the screws in pic three and sliding the plate back slightly?

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It will be unless you work a bit harder :) What you've done looks good though, very neat.

Another 8.30pm finish.
I definitely underestimated how much of a chew on it would be pulling boards up in awkward corners etc. Laying the floor is piss in comparison - not that I’m doing a perfect job of that either 😅

I'm a bit behind on the thread at the moment but LSX is great for any plumbing jobs. Be aware that its not uncommon for a whole lot of leaks to start when you move the toilets around. Best to dismantle and clean everything. Put it all back together with LSX and don't over torque anything.