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• #4327
I shipped a chain 3 times racing SSCX in Herne Hill once. NEVER AGAIN!
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• #4328
Bling
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• #4329
absoluteBLACK. Not cheap though, and are alu so won't last as long as steel.
They are very tarty though.
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• #4330
Indra has one and hasn't broken it, so they must be good
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• #4331
Oh yeah, all those bike rides he does these days.
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• #4332
Indra has one and hasn't broken it
Oh yeah, all those bike rides he does these days.
Looks like he's just breaking pick up trucks these days
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• #4333
He goes through phases of riding, I think. Never seems to post them though
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• #4334
Okay gang, might construct a magic gear single speed MTB with spare parts. What's the easiest calculator to use?
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• #4335
I have one of these and a matching chainring, super smooth.
Trek is still stuck in wheel axle hell, front wheel is all good after shelling out for more overpriced mavic shims but the back wheel is a different story. Managed to take the current axle out, my 12 mm axle fits through on one side but the bearings on the other side are too small for the axle to pass through!! Its bloody infuriating!!!!! Do I have to shell out even more money for new bearings that will fit a 12mm axle or am I being thick? Any ideas? -
• #4336
I've just had a look at this - http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php
What are peoples thoughts on magic gear vs chain tensioners? How big a tolerance do you realistically have? Running 42/18 on the Uncle John gives 63 GI, but it is half a mm too long (slack).
This seems like a negligible amount, and I'd expect to get reasonable chain tension but just wondering what people think. Am I just making life hard for myself trying to avoid buying a chain tensioner? -
• #4337
A chain tensioner is a lot simpler to set up and maintain. Any other way of tensioning the chain, like an EBB or magic gear, usually requires regular maintenance to ensure the chain remains engaged.
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• #4338
requires regular maintenance
And with those magic words I have lost interest. Chain tensioner it is.
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• #4339
I’d you can, get one that allows you tension the chain in both planes, so both inwardly and outwardly. I found the former was better for sscx riding as more teeth in the cog were engaged and the chain slipped less under high torque.
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• #4340
I've been working on my SSCX bike during conference calls (but not my fitness or weight management). It's budget. And deliberately stealth so it's not do obvious when I get lapped.
Decisions required on brakes.
1 Attachment
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• #4341
I have some TRP cantis if you like?
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• #4342
Disc front, CX-70 on the rear
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• #4343
Brks r DTH.
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• #4344
Is BB7 still the mechanical disc brake of choice? I did think of disc front but i'd need another wheel and this is budget. And I've been looking for CX-7os but I can only find CX-50s. Is there a retailer who's hoarding them?
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• #4345
Can anyone give me any tips on tensioning the arkose ebb before I start messing with it? I’ve only had a Kona and GT before which had slightly different type of ebb
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• #4346
TRP Spyres would be the better choice, easier to maintain than BB7s and more consistent braking performance.
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• #4347
I'm gonna suggest getting a Shimano CX77 to match the CX70. Though the spyre mentioned will prob be better. CX70 is tricky to find.
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• #4349
My choices were obv more of an aesthetic option, but I have been racing with the CX-70
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• #4350
What adapter do I need for TRP Spyres? I have the IS dodads for the brakes and I've gone down the adapter rabbit hole and I'm now just confused.
Talking about this...
Ive dropped my chain 3 times now on my transition which is not great (uphill out the saddle too)
Its most certainly coming off the rear...
Whatre the go too NW SS cogs?