Miche Pistard 2.0 & Pistard air cranks

(Almost) New stuff from Miche released this year. Anybody has some Info on it? Any opinions so far?

http://www.ridewill.it/en/news-and-promotions/new-miche-pistard-air-and-20-cranksets/284/

They certainly look good!

@umop3pisdn

I have them, so does @Lukas. Bit agricultural but do the job. Can put you in touch with a UK seller if you're after some.

I really like them. Feel noticeably stiffer than ISO BB Sugino 75s (according to my legs, probably due to BB/spindle interface) and marginally stiffer than SG75DDs (probably due to arm cross-section and filled spider). Not as brutal as Omniums, but lighter, look much nicer (IMO) and run on proven Shimano HTII BBs that are cheap enough to be disposable.
Been running mine on my nice day/race bike for a couple of months with zero problems.
Stock chainring is a bit meh, but looks great with Zen as umop3pisdn has shown, and Zen is also a tighter fit around the spider than the stock ring (that somehow must be a good thing). Note that if you want to change from the stock ring, you need either a 4mm thick chainring, or an assortment of shim washers fill the gap between the back of the crank arm bolt hole and the chainring.

So you both went for the Pistard Air? Looks quite nice with these flashy chainringbolts... A serious track crank set from Miche after all?

They are supplied with bog standard black steel bolts, that are a wee bit soft/not as high in quality as chromed steel Sugino ones. The stock bolts also protrude from the rear of the spider (to allow for a 6mm hex socket), so it's worth replacing them with better quality traditional ones if you want them to last/to not poke out into the wind.

As serious as you'd ever really need (until it breaks, ha!). SG75DD can hardly be considered a 'serious' choice given its arm design (looks nice, but...) is flexy AF and hasn't changed for 30 years.

For a square taper crank I always found my S75's to be pretty stiff and solid. But I'm no 80Kg sprinter type, maybe that makes a difference. Given how hard it is for square taper crnaksets to compete against (most of the) modern thru-axle designs they do quite nice.

But it's true that the the 75DD's are not so tempting. They always looked like an unwanted child, born just because the marked demanded something with outboard bb.

btw @umop3pisdn what do you mean by "agricultural"? :D

Oh, and I wonder how they hold up against Rotor 3D24 track cranks. They would've been my first choice for aero. The price tag diff is significant, tho.

Agreed SG75s are plenty stiff and fine most of the time. I'm only about 73 kg, but do notice flex from standing starts.
Never owned or ridden Rotors but I don't like the way they look; form over function, angles, edges and unnecessary milling. They're probably lovely cranks, though. I imagine it can't be as aero as the Miche because the transition from spider to/from arm isn't as smooth.

Yeah, it's probably all about the edges and angles of which the wind comes on the surface. These round surfaces sound more aero to me as an aero-layman.

Standing starts are a thing. I tend to span my bike into the turbo trainer occasionally, and I am always surprised to see how much flex is in my (rather cheap) alu frame. Not sure whether I would notice it in the cranks, due to a lack of experience. But I will try it asap.

Chainrings are another story. I always have been fond of the Gebhardt one as a cheap replacement for Zen's. They are thick, rather heavy and pretty solid.

We're in the same aero-layman boat, then :-)
Turbo will probably cause the frame to flex more than during actual riding (assuming same gearing/torque/effort), with the front wheel stationary and rear squashed into the turbo. In that situation, if you upgrade to a slightly stiffer crank, the frame will flex more... Crank will still make a difference though, particularly when on the road/track.
Yep, Gebhardt rings are great for the money!

So what's the downside of the Pistard Air cranks vs the 2.0? Not aero muself atm but found a set of Pistard Aero at a good price and thinking about getting it for the track bike I'm building! Also like the looks of it!
I assume I can change the chainring size if I decide to move from 49T to 50 or 51T for example? What does the 'seamless' connection mean?
Thanks! I'm totally new to fixie track specs and started digging now.. :)

I’m intrested in the Pistard 2.0 cranks. If these take a Hollowtech II bb, I dont see any kind of preload adjuster or spring in any pictures. How do you adjust the preload? Or do these attach to the non drive side bearing like Omniums do?
Anybody have any measured weights of these cranks?

I was told on Weightweenies-forum that these use a wave washer for preload. On to the next question, is the chain line true to specs 42.5mm?

No wave washer, but TBH the spline is so tight you can adjust the preload by not doing them up that little bit more. I’ve used them for ages, great cranks.

Not sure on the exact chainline as I needed to space mine out a bit (big chainring on a Cervelo T4 with poor clearance)

I installed the Pistard 2.0 cranks with a Dura-Ace R9100 bb. Chainline = 42,5mm.
Weights:
165mm Cranks = 622g
48t chainring 101g
Chainring bolts 20g

Any idea whether these have an aluminium or a steel axle?

Steel. Don't think there's any 24mm spindle Alu cranks?

great thanks!

Just to check, these cranks 100% ok with Hollowtech II BB's? All the marketting literature I can find specifies only Miche, and their upgraded supertype BB's are like the unicorn

I've got and have used Pistard Air cranks with a shimano BB that I bought from ^ umop3pisdn

They fit but can sometimes be quite tight. Also when you're installing the non drive crank arm, keep going as it takes a while and a fair bit of force to get it on all the way.

From watching a mechanic previously struggle to get the cranks on with the Miche BB, this issue might be irrespective of what one you use/choose.

They have been working perfectly with the Dura-Ace bb. The spindle was a tight fit to get installed through the bearings, might be because of my first diy bb shell facing. I think that the rubber O-rings is not a perfect solution for pre load, because bb shell width will affect pre load tightness, and with time the rubber rings will degrade. However, after a few hundred kilometers the bb has gotten alot smoother than it was on the first install, and seems ok. Probably just thick factory grease on the bearings. I only noticed the difference in the bb smoothness while changing chainring bolts, not when pedaling. I think that these cranks will only work with the road type HT2 bb’s because the MTB bearings are different width as far as I know.