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• #3677
I’d be more concerned about the leak from the rim than the leak from the tyre
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• #3678
It lost pressure relatively rapidly via the small hole which looks like a wear indicator. Possibly it allows for the release of any water than enters via the spoke holes on the internal side of the rim? Anyway, once it had lost pressure entirely I reinflated it, still no sealant, and it now seems to be holding pressure. This tubeless stuff is still witchcraft to me.
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• #3679
Pretty weird, maybe the air was getting through the tape at the valve, and exiting most noticeably at the drainage hole, but the valve has sealed up since
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• #3680
That would make sense. I didn’t remove/clean the valve properly so perhaps it’s fouled with some prior sealant and has now settled into a happier place with the addition of a bit of time and pressure.
Still a bit nonplussed that the sidewall is leaking on the rear tyre. Tempted to add sealant as I’m sure it will fix it but don’t want to void any option of return if it’s a defect
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• #3681
Sounds like a defect to me, albeit one which may not make any difference once you put sealant in
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• #3682
Anyone know if Aksium Disc rims are tubeless?
I seem to remember it having a nice rim tape that seemed like a tubeless one but not finding any mention of tubeless in the reviews and listings I’m finding for the wheels.
I’ve destickered the rim so if it said on it then it’s long gone.
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• #3683
Dont think mine are tubeless compatible. Do they have a ridge on the rim bed for the bead to pop over?
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• #3684
The small sticker on mine says aksium one disc,
they are tubeless. -
• #3685
Anyone know if Aksium Disc rims are tubeless?
Aksium covers a lot of variants, you need to know the version and model year. Or, as DJ says, just look for the bead lock.
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• #3686
Guess I need to get the tyre off and have a look.
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• #3687
Yeah this doesn’t look tubeless does it...?
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• #3688
this doesn’t look tubeless does it...?
Nope
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• #3689
Balls.
Was hoping I had one half of a tubeless wheelset for my fixed gravel bike.
Looking for recommendation of rims then, front rim needs to have a brake track rear doesn't and I'm as keen to avoid an unnecessary machined sidewall on the rear as worn anodising on the front so either a rim that comes in machined/un-machined versions or two different rims that are a fairly good match in profile, depth etc.
Or should I just get silver rims...?
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• #3690
DT r460, disc version on the rear?
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• #3691
Kinlin XR31 in the appropriate flavor for each.
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• #3692
should I just get silver rims...?
No, what you should get is a rear brake.
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• #3693
I have a rear brake.
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• #3694
@Lolo @snottyotter cheers for the recommendations.
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• #3695
Jesus... trying to get some GP5000TL onto new lightbicycle rims. Struggled so thought I'd take them to the LBS. They told me they hate them and wouldn't do it. Oh well!
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• #3696
Reassuringly tight
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• #3697
Ha, they should just charge you enough to put you off.
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• #3698
Or do it, the fucking wimps.
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• #3699
The mechanic just shook his head... I'd pay half an hour of labour to get them fitted no problem. Wasted far longer on that already
Replacing the tyres on a set of tubeless Easton EC90sl wheels. Tyres are Schwalbe pro ones, the tubeless version.
Have seated tyres but not added sealant yet. One is losing air through a small hole that looks to be purposely drilled beneath the brake track (front wheel). Have no idea why this is but not too concerned as this was holding air earlier today before I washed out the previous load of sealant so will presumably reseal(?). The rear tyre has been seated but is losing air through a hole that appears to be coming from one of the moulding spikes on the tyre sidewall. I’ve tried to attach a picture, it’s the piece of rubber sticking out directly above the ‘T’ of tubeless. No tyre levers have been used, these were put on by hand. Is this normal in a tubeless tyre? Should I return for a warranty replacement or just add sealant and let it repair itself?
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